Typical Sachs dual-mass flywheel
spot a faulty dual mass flywheel It is not difficult if you know what it is for and how it works. This piece is also called a dual-mass clutch and is an element that absorbs the vibrations of the engine. In this way it protects the rest of the components and allows the car to have a smooth and comfortable operation. Once we have this clear, it is easy to assume that when the dual mass stops working correctly, the symptoms that we will notice will be excessive vibrations and rattles.
So that you can know if the dual-mass flywheel is failing, we are going to describe a series of symptoms that can clear your doubts when making your own diagnosis. And what is more important, we are also going to tell you what symptoms can mislead you and end up making mistakes.
What are the symptoms of a dual-mass flywheel failure?
A symptom of a failed dual-mass flywheel is a noise when depressing the clutch with the engine running in neutral and the car stopped. A noise like a metallic "ratchet" would indicate a fault in the dual-mass or with a bit of luck only in other elements of the clutch (collar, etc.)
Another quite obvious symptom is when, when stopping the engine with the ignition key, a "clack-clack-clack" is heard coming from the compartment at the instant it is stopping.
If when you analyze it it is in good condition you will save a lot of money...
Un slightly faulty dual-mass flywheel will produce a humming noise and vibrations that will be broadcast throughout the powertrain. They can be noticed especially in the area of the pedals, but also on the steering wheel, seat, etc To isolate these vibrations from the dual mass from other possible failures, we must test the car in neutral. At idle the vibrations will be large and will decrease in intensity but increase in frequency as the engine accelerates.
Anyway, a dual-mass flywheel can be 100% diagnosed once disassembled. It is expensive and you will have to pay labor, but if the mechanic is trustworthy, that is better than not paying directly for such an expensive part. To make it clearer, we are going to see each of the symptoms of failure in the dual-mass flywheel in more depth.
Vibration and rattling noise at idle
When a flywheel dual-mass stops fulfilling its function, vibrations and noises increase considerably in the vehicle. Put the car in neutral and see if you notice these symptoms. To make sure it is the dual mass and not another element of the engine, you can accelerate little by little. If, as the revolutions rise, the vibrations decrease in intensity but increase in frequency, it is very possible that the origin is the dual-mass flywheel.
Another way to make sure is to step on clutch with the car idling. If the metallic chatter disappears when you do this, it is most likely the dual-mass flywheel.
Mechanical explanation:
Y… what is bimasa used for? Contrary to what one might think, the motor does not rotate continuously and smoothly. As is logical, by obtaining its turning force from the explosions generated in its cylinders, in the same turn there is a moment in which it goes faster because the explosion has taken place and another that goes slower until the next one does not take place. detonation. East pulse-based operation generated by explosions is reflected in what we perceive as vibrations, because a motor rotates several thousand times per minute, as you can see from the rev counter.
all these vibes they would pass to the rest of the components and the passenger compartment if it were not for the dual-mass flywheel. Unlike a single mass flywheel, which is simply a disc that connects the engine to the clutch, the dual-mass flywheel is made up of two discs with a spring system that absorb vibrations from the engine. While the first disc is connected to the motor and receives the vibrations, the second only receives a fraction of them thanks to the springs that separate them.
If the dual-mass flywheel is sufficiently worn or deteriorated, the spring system that absorbs the vibrations between its two discs retains nothing or almost nothing. This causes noise caused by discs, which move too much one with respect to the other, because they are not properly retained by the spring system.
Vibrations when putting the foot on the clutch
The clutch pedal can also give you a clue to a faulty dual-mass flywheel. Moreover, through him you can even determine to what extent it is deteriorated. Of course, not all cars are the same and there are brands in which it is more noticeable and others in which it is less. This depends on what components you use and how you assemble them. Even so, the following symptoms are the most frequent and can help you determine what is happening in your car.
A slightly damaged dual-mass flywheel will cause vibrations that will reach the clutch pedal through the entire powertrain. These vibrations can also be felt in the steering wheel, seat and dashboard, but where they should be most noticeable is in the pedal. If this vibration is not accompanied by a metallic sound while idling, this may mean that the dual-mass flywheel is not completely damaged and that, although it does not absorb completely vibrations, yes it does at least in part.
Mechanical explanation: this is because the spring system is somewhat worn or damaged and cannot absorb vibrations effectively. There is no rattling sound coming from the dual mass flywheel because the springs are still partially working and the flywheels still don't move as if they were loose.
Knocking when turning off the engine
Another quite illuminating symptom of a fault in the dual-mass flywheel is when, when turning off the engine with the ignition key, a “clack-clack-clack” is heard coming from the engine compartment in the moments that the engine stops.
mechanical explanation: the sound of a damaged dual-mass flywheel It becomes more apparent when you drop the revs a lot.. This is why it sounds when the engine is idling and why it sounds even louder when the engine is stopping.
Tremors when starting the march
You will normally notice this together with the rest of the symptoms that we have described. If it occurs on its own, this may mean that the dual mass flywheel is somewhat worn and is capable of absorbing vibrations at idle, but is not able to absorb them when they increase.
Mechanical explanation: when starting the march (put first and release the clutch as we accelerate) the revolutions are still low and the force used is higher because the motor is starting to push. This requires more work to the dual mass, which is not capable of absorbing them with the consequent tremor in the car.
Tips to take care of the dual-mass flywheel
Either because you suspect that it is a little worn or because even though it is new you want it to last a long time, there are a series of habits that you can acquire to avoid a dual-mass flywheel failure before its time.
Don't go full throttle when you're at low revs.
Note that When the dual-mass flywheel works the most, it is with low revolutions but a lot of torque.. That is, when we accelerate a lot at low revs. This is what we do when we go up a hill in high gears or when, to save fuel, we go full throttle to gain speed without changing gear.
A good sign that we are not doing it right is when, even when it is new, some uncomfortable vibrations when accelerating at low revs. Change to a shorter one and everything will be fine. However, even if the car does not warn you with vibrations, you should know that the work of the dual mass will always be greater if you accelerate down a hill at 1.500 rpm instead of 2.000 rpm.
Rescheduling can speed up your attrition
When we reprogram the control unit of a car to gain power and torque, we are making the engine work harder without adapting the rest of the components. Although these modifications do not have to go beyond the reasonable limits of the car's mechanics, they will accentuate the wear they receive.
Do not release the clutch suddenly
Although this is obvious, because not only the dual-mass flywheel suffers but also the clutch, the engine and other parts, it is another cause of early deterioration of the flywheel. Release the clutch smoothly and at the right time. You should not fall into the mistake of releasing it too late, when the engine revolutions have already dropped too much, making the clutch work to recover them. In the following video you can see how to do it in such a way that you extend the life of the clutch:
The dual-mass flywheel can also be damaged by a clutch overheating (causing him to skid unnecessarily) or for having clutch disc too tight, to the point that the rivets on the lining rub against the bi-mass or from slipping so much they abrade the surface.
So one last piece of advice: if we notice something strange in the clutch, maybe we should have it checked. A good diagnosis in time can save us the replacement of the bimass, if for example, we damaged the dual mass for not changing the clutch disc on time.
How much can a dual-mass flywheel breakdown cost me?
A breakdown in the dual-mass flywheel is very expensive, since it can rarely be repaired and garages simply change the whole set. We are talking approximately 600 euros for the dual-mass flywheel, plus another 200 euros for the clutch, plus another 250 euros for labor. Obviously these figures can vary quite a bit from one car to another. Total, we will be lucky if it falls below 1.000 euros.
Images – Photo 3 by 3ndymion _, CC BY-SA ; Photo 4 by srgpicker, CC BY; Photo 5 by Timitrius, CC BY-SA ; Photo 6 by Tony Harrison, CC BY-SA
More information about this model
- Plazas 5
- Power 163 - 367 hp
- Consumer goods 1,1 - 8,4l/100km
- Assessment 4,6
One of the worst automotive inventions...
Yeah… but every day more present! They are even beginning to be seen in gasoline engines….
IT IS A RETROCESS IN THE MECHANICS AND THE HOUSES DO NOT WANT TO RECOGNIZE IT, I ALREADY PAID €1300 FOR A PEUGUEOT 307 WITH 80.000KM AND NOW I HAVE TO PAY AS MANY OTHERS FOR A 2005 FORD FIESTA -90.000KM WITH BIMASA.
BUT OF COURSE, ACCORDING TO THE PROFESSIONALS OF THE OFFICIAL WORKSHOPS, THAT IS THE LIFE OF A CLUTCH. I DID OVER 280.000KM ON ALL OTHER CARS FROM BEFORE WITH NORMAL CLUTCHES. IT WILL BE FOR SOMETHING, I SAY, RIGHT?
you are absolutely right they just told me the same thing in the workshop, with my peugueot 307 with 50.000 km yes 50.000
Learn to drive! XD
I changed my last clutch with 165.000 km of service, an original suzuki excess, it came out working perfectly, only the press was getting hard from use and time, therefore the pedal also hardened.
Good Morning.
I have a Seat Ibiza bought new in 2003 and it currently has 315000 km. Since yesterday, every time I step on the clutch pedal, the car makes a noise like a drill and stops completely every time I take my foot off the clutch.
I have read a lot in this very interesting forum and I know that the cause is in the clutch, dual mass or the thrust bearing or in all of them. is it so? What is your opinion?
If it were the case, how much could a repair of all this cost me? I ask you because I have doubts about whether I should buy a new one or continue with my beloved Ibiza….
Thanks for this great forum.
A greeting.
Mister vehicle of 20.000 It presented Bimasa problems, complete change, I have had vehicles that only at 80.000 give me complicated breads but none of this, it is a factory issue that makes the most delicate vehicles.
Well, the truth is that I just paid 1.500 euros for having melted the clutch of an A6 from the year 2000 with 325.000 km. , 2.4 and v6 engine and the worst thing that has been in Holland, maybe that's why the invoice, but they have put the same dual-mass disk and now it produces vibrations... let's see what I do now. Well, disassemble and put a new one !!
I would like to know if they have a dual-mass flywheel from a mitsubishi montero 3.2 DID 2000 and what price it would have. Thank you
We do not sell spare parts, sorry
I understand that old cars do not have dual mass
read what I say, more than 3.000
you are absolutely right they just told me the same thing in the workshop, with my peugueot 307 with 50.000 km yes 50.000
his thing is to mount it with fixed dual mass it is cheaper
I have an alfa 159 when disassembling the clutch some bent hub teeth can be seen, the dual mass does not look bad, is it advisable to change it? there were no strange noises when idling or running, everything happened with the car stopped when trying to engage the gear it was not going
I assume that by "tooth" you mean the elastic lamellae (diaphragm) of the mallet. If so, I see no reason to replace the dual mass. Have they told you what is the origin of those folded sheets?
I have a Ford transit with 385000KM, the clutch has never been changed. After having changed the starter motor, when I start it I notice a ratchet-side noise at the end of the starter (this makes it perfect). I took it to the workshop and they told me which can be clutch and dual mass
If it is only at the end of the start (that is, a moment after starting and it no longer starts), the problem is possibly the starter motor itself, which does not recoil properly when the key is released or similar. If it does it continuously, yes that could be the dual mass or the clutch….or that they have installed the starter motor incorrectly. What year is that Transit?
Hello, I have a Mazda 6 2003 crtd2.0 136cv and what you mention in the last tip happens to me: it is only damaged, I have a mark from one of the rivets on the lining, what can it cause if I do not replace the dual mass? my mechanic does not give me a guarantee on the rest of the parts if I do not change it!! he also says that he has slack… What do you advise me? Thanks.
Hello, with the Law in hand, I don't know to what extent it is legal that you don't get a guarantee on the rest of the parts, but hey, I'm not going to go into that because it's an ambiguous issue. How many kilometers does the car have? What use have you given it? How many more kilometers do you plan to do it? How much difference is there in the budget of changing the bimass or not changing it? These are things that need to be considered. If it only has a slight scratch on one of the rivets, you could risk not changing the dual mass... always depending on the km it has. If, as you say, it has slack, I think that the price of labor is not worth the risk of not changing the dual mass, even more so if the workshop is going to give you trouble if you have a breakdown in a short time for not having changed it as they diagnosed. .
I don't know if you received the previous message
I have a Touran 2.0 with a DSG transmission and I have already done 335.000 km on it. My clutch system has just been adjusted, or reprogrammed (it's not really a conventional automatic car, but rather has a kind of robotic gear change system). Once fixed, they tell me that I have to change the dual-mass flywheel, but I have not previously noticed any symptoms of the type of vibrations that you mention here. Is there a clear way to verify this fault based on the symptoms? What question should I ask in the workshop to make sure that what they tell me is true? I wouldn't want them to change my dual mass, just to make it easier for them to fix a minor fault.
Hello Antonio, by way of clarification, the DSG transmission is a relatively normal automatic transmission, with a robotic clutch activation (both clutches, in this case), unlike vehicles equipped with a torque converter. Tried to answer your question, saying that with that amount of km it is possible for the dual-mass to fail, but it should not necessarily be so. The first thing you should ask yourself is what symptoms have led to this "reprogramming" of the box. If there were no symptoms and there aren't now, and assuming the mechanic hasn't disassembled the vehicle (I mean I'm assuming they didn't open the gearbox for a visual inspection, right?), I see no reason to replace the dual-mass.
Eye, it is simply my opinion through the description you give me. As you will understand, it is difficult to diagnose remotely.
You will tell us how such.
regards
In case it's useful to others, I'll tell you, Luis, that in the end they changed my dual-mass flywheel, and I really think it was the right decision. What I noticed in the car was that when slowing down to a stop, and going about five kilometers an hour, the car jerked a little as if it was going to stall. It is an automatic DSG, but the effect was something similar to when one goes to stop a manual car without depressing the clutch. How is it going to sink in? My problem was that this was the only symptom that the car presented, since the rest of the vibrations that are described in this forum I did not notice. That's why I consulted you, friend Luis.
At the VW workshop, the first thing they did to me was to change the clutch oil and the filter, then adjust the clutch or reprogram it and, once they ruled out that the problem was there, then they changed the dual mass with the result that I have described. The car has 335.000 km and I hope it will last a long time (I am delighted with it), because unfortunately I am not up for car changes. Will better times come?
Antonio, first of all thank you for taking the time to share your experience with us. The symptom you describe is somehow associated with that "clack-clack" that can sometimes be heard when stopping the engine in a manual gearbox.
In your case, changing the bimass was a necessity. I will keep your description of the fault in mind in case it could be of help to other readers.
Thank you!
regards
PS the politicians say that the worst is over... I don't know if they are aware of the reality of the "ordinary" citizen
hello luis gaton and Antonio. I wanted to make a clarification on Antonio's little problem and on the clack clack that you comment on. I have the citroen c4 grand picasso automatic and manual, it has for both. well the problem of jerks that Antonio comments I had it until today. I went to the dealer and they told me that the computer did not cause any problems and I went to 2 other workshops and the same thing and someone could tell me what the problem is, well, I looked on the web to see if I found someone with the same problem and I saw one just like it said that they changed the intake throttle and everything was fine, so I took it to the mechanic today and cleaned that area, and now it no longer gives those jerks that were only between 1000 and 2000 revolutions. but I do have the problem you say about the clack clack when I change from driving to stopped, I hear it in the gearbox clack clack clack and I also have a small vibration in the accelerator and brake. My question is, could you tell me what it is? I have no idea of mechanics but I'm realizing because many mechanics are the same, without the computer they have no fucking idea.
I have a vw touran with 310000 km, and it has that clack when it's idling, it could be the steering wheel you mentioned, it's a 1.9 tdi.
Hello Jesus, yes it could be. Do you have any other symptoms? Does it only do it at idle?
Hello, I have a Ford Focus with 210000 km and I have never changed the clutch. A few days ago I noticed a sound, as you say, of a metallic ratchet when changing gears, especially in low gears. They tell me in the workshop what is the bimasa. However today it has stopped making that noise. It is normal? Could it be a symptom that it is not really a fault with the dual mass and be something else? Thanks.
Jose Luis, what you say is usually a symptom of touched bimasa. It is likely that little by little the noise will become more frequent, until you have to change it
Hi Luis, look, I have a 2010 touran with a 2008 BLS engine and an automatic gearbox. When that dual-mass noise started, the car was going very well, the only thing that bothered me was that noise. Then I bought a kit and took it to a mechanic, he changed me at first everything was fine without noise but the next day a strong vibration and noise began, now I tell myself it could be something else, he says this could be the rocker box . Could it be that the mechanic installed the dual mass incorrectly and as a result this went to the rocker box? Thank you
Does the chrysler neon ll have a dual mass flywheel?
I am a mechanic from Zamora who has worked a lot on the vag group and it has nothing to do with the clutch system, whatever it is, whether it is well or poorly mounted with a rocker arm shaft that has begun to sound, for whatever reason, of whatever brand it is. the rocker arms are in the cylinder head and should not be touched
for a clutch repair
Hello Guys, to see if someone can give me a hand where the problem comes from.
I have a 2001 ford focus diesel with 180.000 and original clutch, when the car is in gear and moving when I release the clutch but without removing the gear I feel like a vibration, when I press the clutch it goes away, I have no idea where it can come from the problem, if something of the clutch or the transmission. They checked the front end and shock absorbers and they are fine.
Thanks to all
I have a renault megane II from 2003 with 168.000km and the other day my clutch suddenly screwed up and they told me it's the cylinder and that maybe the dual-mass flywheel should be changed together with the clutch kit, from what I read mine neither had vibrations at idle nor made strange noises, just to say something it made me notice that when going about 120km h it sounded a little more than usual but I only seemed to hear it a couple of times and a week before at least then already nothing d nothing. Is it necessary to change the dual-mass flywheel? It's just that I don't want the workshop to take my money in the face without being necessary. Please answer me as soon as possible. Thank you
There are workshops that directly choose to put everything new as soon as the vehicle has some mileage. Without seeing it it is difficult to diagnose, but in principle there seems to be no reason to change it. In fact, as I understand what you are saying, what has failed is the hydraulic thrust collar that does the disengagement, not even the clutch itself.
Ask to be well informed about the fault and the possible solutions that exist... you'll tell us.
regards
It was simply that at a traffic light the clutch stopped working, it did not return to its position, as if they had removed the spring and it was losing liquid, but suddenly and without further ado. What do you think? Thank you very much for your answer. Since they told me today and I have been worried since I don't understand much about cars and I don't want them to tease me.
Well that's almost certainly either the thrust collar or the master cylinder has failed. Probably the thrust collar, because to change the master cylinder it is not necessary to disassemble anything. What happens is that many times the thrust collar, due to its operation, let's say it "marks" or makes notches in the clutch hub and once it is disassembled, it may not fit again, that's why when changing the collar Many times the clutch kit is put on again, to take advantage of the fact that it is disassembled and make a quality repair.
But from there to changing the dual-mass flywheel there is already a lot of difference, since in principle there is no reason to change it. In fact, I have changed that collar in several cars without changing the dual mass, but YES changing the clutch kit.
Do you run the risk of breaking something if you change dual mass for rigid? Thank you
Hi, I have a citroen xhara picasso, 9 years old, and 135000 km.
At 100.000 I had to change the bi-mass.
And at 120.000 again, because they told me in the workshop that it would have been defective.
The fact is that now with 135000 the clutch makes the same noises again, both the metallic noise at idle, and the clock, clock, clock, when turning off the engine.
How can it be that with so few km the dual mass is giving me so many problems? Is it possible to mount the monomass in my car?
greetings.
Many taxi drivers remove the dual mass as soon as it is broken by a single mass and most do not have major problems except noise and vibrations. In some cases I have heard of breakdowns in the primary or in the box, but….
I don't know...it's very strange. It may be that in the 120.000 km repair they did not replace it with a new one, but simply limited themselves to "napping" it. But it is only an assumption, what is rare is that two dual-mass vehicles leave in 35.000 km. For your car, I think there is a single-mass conversion kit, depending on the engine it is.
First of all, thanks for responding.
Today I took it to the mechanic and he confirmed that it is the clutch. He doesn't know what the problem could be. I had the complete clutch changed at 120.000 km. I saw how they dismantled it and placed the new one. They are going to fix it for me under warranty, but the mechanic was surprised.
My engine is 1.6 hdi, 110 hp.
Is there a possibility of converting to monomass?
When you say clutch… do you mean the dual-mass flywheel? The dual mass or the clutch may be damaged, not everything is a single kit.
Regarding mounting monomass, I think that for example Valeo has a kit for that engine. PSA has a sad fame in its dual mass, especially the HDI 136CV.
Yes, if I mean the dual mass. I'm going to see the monomass, to see if its assembly is possible. What differences will I notice? More noise and more vibrations inside the car, right? Anything else?
I can't tell you what you'll notice as I've heard everything from people saying they don't notice it at all to drivers claiming their car has turned into a disgusting noise box. I know that many people change it and remain so calm, but I have also heard totally adverse cases... search the internet in forums and you will see comments of all kinds.
I changed the dual mass of my 2005 seat leon due to dual mass failure and I put a valeo 4p kit with a rigid flywheel (without dual mass) and zero problems. I'm a mechanic and installed it myself. Besides that it came out much better for the price, I know that it will not cause any damage. No noises, smoothness the same, at least for the moment...and they go 20 thousand km already. In a dual-mass, the vibrations are absorbed by the flywheel and in a single-mass they are absorbed by the disc springs, as has been done all along... and without problems. The failures in primary are given by the failure of the dual mass. In my case, my dual mass rotated eccentrically with respect to the axis, producing horrible vibrations throughout the car at idle. It was spinning so eccentrically that it scratched the ENTIRE bell inside the box. If I had spent more time with him, almost certainly, I would have broken the whole box. when changing the steering wheel and all the kit of it disappeared. It must be said that we tow a caravan every year on long journeys and no strange vibrations
The mechanic told me the same thing. He has told me that he has replaced the dual-mass with a single-mass on two occasions. In one case, the owner said that he did not notice the difference. And in another he told me that the owner came a week, saying that if he found out he wouldn't change it because he had changed a car for a tractor.
Thanks for the answers.
You will tell us what you decide and the result of the operation. Cheers!
Today I went to the workshop.
The destroyed bimass. He tells me that he changes it to me under warranty, but if it breaks again, he no longer takes responsibility, because then it is something foreign to him that breaks the bimass.
He recommended the monomass. He has already asked. I confirm that there is monomass for the citroen xhara picasso diesel 1.6 hdi.
I will tell you about the experience.
Well, I have already picked up the car with the monomass.
My impressions: nothing is noticeable.
There are no vibrations in neutral, nor is the clutch harder, nor does it vibrate when you go out in first gear, nor do you hear noises, nor anything at all.
At least I don't notice the difference.
I am happy with the change, and I regret not having put the monomass when the first bimass broke.
Hello, I have a Hyundai Terracan 2.9 CRDI 163 hp and my bi-mass flywheel, plate, disc and thrust bearing have been destroyed… I read in a forum that the bi-mass flywheel can be replaced by a fixed flywheel for Hyundai Terracan 2.9 CRDI 150 hp since it is the same engine and it is also much cheaper, I want your opinion on the matter if it is convenient to replace it.- I live in ARGENTINA and here that flywheel is not available, there is only the bi-mass at a cost greater than 2.000 dollars and the kit of clutch at 1.400 dollars more or less.- I would appreciate your prompt response. atte Cacho Espíndola
Hi Mario, first I apologize for answering if it's wrong, greetings from Peru, I'll inform you about it, here there is also a terracan I went through something similar to you, but in a hyundai santa fe 2007 crdi 155CV, the issue is that before doing any thing, disassemble the clutch and with the pieces see if it really is the same, if it is the same go ahead you are lucky. In my case the disk has failed because climbing the Andes it was no longer working and it smelled burnt, I turned around and the journey ended on the flat, it is normal but I know it is the disk, in my case I have consulted with 3 mechanics from a official home mechanic, even my trusted mechanic. The one at home tells me that he should replace all collar plate disk (thrust roulette as you say, or friction bearing as I read), clutch pump and flywheel. Here my dilemma, my trusted mechanic tells me that it seems to him that it is only the disc, plate and collar, not the flywheel, how recommendable it is to do only what he recommends. They have told me that in 6 months the plate would wear out and I would die. the collar, does anyone know if there is a fixed or solid steering wheel for hyundai santa fe 2.2 crdi.
The gentleman who asked how much a dual-mass-clutch kit for a Mitsubishi Montero 3.2 is worth. what does it feel like I'm going to tell you: more than 3.000 eu, labor aside. And it usually lasts from 50 to 70 thousand Kms. .then it starts to spin when starting and it's an ordeal. I changed it at 150 thousand and at 2 or 8 thousand, it jerks again when I release the clutch. and the experts say, the 3.2 engine is one of the most unbalanced and unravels the bi-mass, something that the flywheel manufacturers love.
Hello. I have a 1.6 Focus II 2006 tdci and at idle and around 1500 rpm, it sounds like a metallic "clink" (between 1000 and 1500 it doesn't sound and neither does it go beyond 1500). The fact is that with the bonnet open and that rattling sound at idle, I put my hand on the engine mount (on the anchorage points of the plastic that covers it) and the sound stops... Can you help me? Thank you!!
Pedro, what you comment I think has an easy and cheap solution. Chances are you have any loose parts or mounts and it vibrates with the low-rpm rattle. To find the origin, as you do well, is to keep pressing the different parts until it stops ringing and from there look for the loose piece.
Hello. Well, I have a Focus from 2005-147 thousand km, with all the signs you describe. That vibration at idle speed is scary, everyone in the car feels it; The clack clack clack I've been listening to it for a long time but I never gave it importance; today I also felt something strange when upshifting, like a loss of power or like it takes time to take the gear... I imagine it was also from the steering wheel.
I was diagnosed at Ford a couple of months ago and this week, taking advantage of the change of shock absorbers, I mentioned it in my usual workshop and they confirmed it, the flywheel.
The funny thing is that both at Ford and at the workshop, they told me to hold on until the clutch starts or changes. At Ford they told me "wow, you still have many kms left for that" and at the workshop they also told me that I could still drive thousands of kms (you never know).
Economically, it is better for me to wait, suffering from vibrations is a lesser evil, otherwise it will get worse… wait, yes, but how long? Why does the clutch split and stay pulled?
I have a 4 skoda octavia combi 4×2004 with 265 thousand km. The thrust cylinder is gone and the complete clutch had to be disassembled, to which my mechanic recommends a single-mass kit since the dual-mass I have is in shreds even the clutch disc fixing piston has clearances so I will inform you shortly I can give impressions
Well I've already assembled it and I'm disappointed because in my car in particular it doesn't work well it vibrates so much that it seems that the ties are going to fall off, at the first I told the mechanic to disassemble it and I assembled a dual mass
Wow, it's a shame because you're also going to have to pay twice the labor. Thank you very much for sharing your experience with us and good luck with the repair
The thrust bearing has been damaged, and they told me that I have to change it together with the clutch disc, my car has approximately 210.000 km, but when starting the mechanic told me that he hears a rattling noise and says that it is the flywheel, My question is the following: can I change only the thrust bearing, or do I also have to change the clutch? And if the noise is from the dual mass, if I don't change it, will it affect the car as well? Thanks a lot.
Hello Jose, any element can be changed separately, since the clutch kit, thrust bearing and flywheel are sold separately. The "good" thing is that when you change everything together you only pay once for labor, which is quite a bit of money, since it is all together. The bearing and the clutch kit are recommended to be changed at the same time, since one piece can "corrupt" the other when working together, and more so with 210.000 km. In principle, the dual-mass flywheel does not need to be changed, but of course, if within 20.000 km it starts to fail (because of that rattling it says you hear), you will remember not having changed it because you will have to pay all the labor again.
I have a Ford Galaxy 1.9 TDI 130 hp from 2003, and from 80 km/h more or less, vibrations begin that only occur when accelerating and disappear when I take my foot off the accelerator. The steering wheel does not vibrate but they are noticeable throughout the vehicle. They have already checked the tires, the suspension and the transmission and the vibrations continue.
I have been told about the dual-mass flywheel, but my car does not make those noises that they comment on while standing still when stepping on the clutch, or when turning off the engine.
If someone could help me, I would appreciate it.
All the best
Raul, do they only occur when accelerating from that speed or do they occur when accelerating at any speed? If it happens at any speed and goes away when you let off the throttle, I'd go because a cylinder misfired. Does the engine sound different than it did before?
The vibrations occur every time you accelerate but from approximately 80 km/h, not at lower speeds and the engine does not sound different.
So it's probably the dual mass. I don't know how big and annoying these vibrations will be, but if they are small (bearable), in your place I might hold on a little longer to see if the origin of the fault becomes more evident before I start to replace such an expensive element. If they have checked wheels and transmission... it could be a motor mount, box support, or simply some part that is half loose and vibrates against the bodywork.
Although... it is also likely to be the bimass
Thank you very much, we will continue investigating.
A greeting.
Hello, I have a 2006 Ford Focus, TDCI 1.8/115 for 2 months it started giving vibrations when stationary, which is quite noticeable, especially in the seats (only when the car is very warm) when it is cold, I do not notice it. I think the clutch is fine because I don't notice any leaks and the car picks up speed and revs well, I did a test and with the 3 I went up to 120 km. What do you think it could be with these symptoms, could it be the dual-mass flywheel? Thanks and I await your response.
You are like me, my Focus is from 2005, same 1.8/115 TDCI engine, with 147 thousand km.
That vibration is uncomfortable and makes me nervous; See if when you turn off the car you hear the rattle. I've also been about 2 months and I think it started almost suddenly.
They told me at Ford and also my regular mechanic to wait, to fix it when I change the clutch. And how long?? Well, I have been told that it is difficult to know, but the normal thing is that the clutch still lasts several thousand more kilometers...
With that bad vibration that almost looks like a tractor….(and don't go any further), I'll have to change everything when I have a good month 🙂 I'll keep going but waiting for thousands of km is still too much.
He told me the same thing, ask at 3 workshops, at Ford, at Bosch Center and finally at my trusted mechanic. to wait
I have LEON I from 2005 diesel, the clutch pedal gets stuck and the third gear especially and the fifth gear is difficult for me to put it in, the reverse gear almost always scratches me, a mechanic told me that when stopped I heard a slight sound and that the bimass was touched, we had to change the entire kid, can you advise me, because the budget was going to be 1000 or more...thanks
If you have to change the clutch kit, once you have everything disassembled you can check if the bi-mass is affected or not. You do not indicate the km you have, nor the engine it is, nor the type of driving you do.
Hello everyone, I have a kia ceed crdi that has about 170.000 km for some time now that I have been detecting that it is difficult to put the reverse gear, and sometimes it scratches a little, the other gears are a bit hard but that is since I bought it, the The car is a marvel of mechanics, it has not had any faults, the mechanic tells me that it is the clutch but it does not slip at all, what I have always noticed is that it hooks the clutch pedal very low, in case I changed the clutch would it be necessary to change the dual mass?
thanks and regards
Hi Juan, the fault you describe is typical of when the diaphragm begins to fail and there is not enough force or space for it to disengage completely. Sometimes it also happens when some air enters the circuit (if it is hydraulic) or when one of the main cylinder or actuator seals leaks. If it is hydraulic, check that it is well bled and that it has no leaks. If it is by cable, simply if it is correctly tensioned, in case it can be done manually. Finally, if you have to change the clutch kit, I don't see the need to change the dual mass if there are no other symptoms, although when dismantling the clutch they will be able to check it.
Hi good morning. I have an Aveo (I think they call it Kalos in Europe) from 2009 and for 2 months, when you step on the clutch (clutch) a noise is heard, as if it were rubbing against metal. I took it to my mechanic and according to him, it is the collar and he told me to continue using it because when changing the collar, it is advisable to change the entire clutch and it is still in good condition. My concern that it is the dual-mass flywheel is because for three days, when starting it, the car jerks and being in neutral, but on, if I step on the clutch, you hear something like "clack-clack-clack ». Do you think it could be the dual mass? The car has 105,000 km.
Greetings from Mexico.
Possibly you have the bearing of the clutch collar in poor condition and the dual mass somewhat touched.
By the way, as an extra fact, it doesn't cost me any work to change gears.
Hello, thanks for the replies, they are very helpful for everyone. I wanted to ask you a few things. I have an opel astra cdti I have been to five workshops and in all of them they tell me that I have to change the dual-mass flywheel, clutch etc... When I clutch it makes the noise that you describe above in the article which by the way is very good, well I wanted to know if I can put up with the car like this until it breaks completely (although this includes those noises, etc.) or I may have some more consequences. That would be my first question, on the other hand they also tell me that the starter motor would have to be fixed since when the car is started it also makes another noise, if I make this repair (clutch change, dual-mass flywheel, that is, the complete kits) it would also solve what about the starter motor or are they independent things? Thank you very much
The starter motor is completely independent of the dual-mass flywheel, with the exception that the first engages the second to start, but nothing else. I don't know how that noise made by the starter motor will be, but you shouldn't rush to replace it unless it is very difficult to remove from the car and you take advantage of doing it together with the clutch. Sometimes some of them make a little noise during the start-up and they stay that way without failing for years, you should hear the noise.
Going back to the dual-mass flywheel, if it really is so damaged, I don't think it's convenient to put up with it unless you're forced to do so for financial reasons. Nothing has to happen, apart from the noises, but... it could also happen at the wrong time and a greater misfortune or anything else that I can't even think of right now.
Hello good morning, I'll tell you my problem is with a Chevrolet S10 year 2011 mwm 2.8 electronic engine, the issue is that it started with an injection failure, once solved I began to feel a vibration when accelerating, between 800 rpm and 1300 or 1400, clutched or not clutched, it does it, in addition to feeling a permanent vibration when I'm walking, could this be a problem with the steering wheel? what problems can it bring me? thank you, I await your response
Hello good day. I have a Passat 2.0 TDI with DSG transmission, and my problem is when starting the engine, since on many occasions (not always), when pressing the key it seems that the engine will have a hard time turning at the same time that the engine shakes or vibrates in excess.
There are no other symptoms, no noises or vibrations except those already described.
Although in the VW they have assured me that it is the dual mass, that it has slack and depending on the position in which it stays when stopping the engine, then it vibrates or not when starting, it would bother me a lot to spend a thousand and something euros and then the starting would continue Same.
Thank you for your opinion, greetings.
Javier, the symptom you describe is practically the same as the "cla-cla-cla" that can occur when stopping the engine, sometimes it occurs when stopping and other times when starting, being more frequent when stopped. It's quite likely a loose dual-mass, but the "hard to turn" symptom doesn't seem to be related.
If the workshop is not 100% sure and you do not want to risk the repair, you can wait to see if the symptoms evolve into something much more obvious.
Thank you very much Luis, I think that's what I'm going to do for the moment.
The fact that it is difficult for them to turn is perhaps my feeling when I see that before it started almost "before I put the key in" and now with that tremor I have to leave it pressed a few tenths of a second more than usual.
A greeting.
In the previous comment I have not indicated that my Passat is almost 9 years old and has 182000 km
Hello,
My case is that I have a golf plus 1.9 Tdi from 2007 with 136.000 km.
Years ago I commented to the technical service that the engine had strange vibrations and noises and they told me not to give it importance but recently I took it to have the glow plugs repaired and they told me that I had to change the dual mass and that's it that they would have the engine then take advantage of to change the clutch. The truth is that I was very surprised that they told me that since I expected this to happen at 200.000 km or more. In the technical service they tell me to change it now, however a mechanic from the neighborhood has told me that it is best to hurry it up until it breaks completely or that it gets much worse since he says that there are many people who go with the damaged dual mass for a long time. and nothing happens. He says it's too early to change the clutch...
What do you think?
I greet everyone
Hello good morning. I have a Sharan 1.9 tdi, with about 125000 km. The problem it has is that it makes a tin noise when you press the clutch in neutral, which disappears when you fully depress the clutch. It also doesn't make any noise when you step on the clutch in gear. Do you have any idea what it could be? Cheers
I have a 2007 touran with 90000 km. I have been detecting a noise for a year when starting the car and sometimes at low speed when changing and stepping on the brake some vibrations as if it wanted to stop, I also detect when changing speed that the car slows down and it is difficult for it to recover. In VW they tell me that it is the bi-mass. In another workshop of an acquaintance he tells me to put a safer and more durable fixed steering wheel. What do I do bi-mass or fixed. Thank you
We cannot decide for you whether to put single or dual mass, since I have heard everything, from people who say they do not notice the difference to people who have had to go back to the workshop to put a dual mass because they could not stand the vibrations and rattles. Curiously, I know of cases where, even with the same engine (in a different model of car), one customer is satisfied with the single-mass and another had to go back to the workshop to fit the dual-mass. Specifically they were a Golf and an Octavia.
hello I have a passat 1.9tdi 130cv and I have to change the clutch plus the dual mass but I have doubts whether to mount a monomass since I am obsessed with noise and vibrations so I don't know whether to put dual mass or monomass someone has made a car of this with monomass
Hello good, I am going to tell you about my case… I have a mercedes class 180 cdi that has 270 thousand km and I have been listening to the metallic sound cla cla cla cla at idle for a lot of time since the car has 200 thousand and my mechanic told me that it was the bimass but it sounded but it didn't have to go now it sounds more to me but the coxe doesn't have any other strange symptom only the clack clack at idle my question is what risk does it go away that is it can break while running???
I think you should consider changing it, the day will come when it breaks completely and you won't be able to put in another change and you'll be left standing, that's what I know from a friend, besides 70,000 KM is enough
Hello, I have an Audi A6 2500, it was automatic and I did it manually. I also changed the control unit, it was from a manual Audi, but when I have it all assembled, the engine does not exceed 2500 revolutions. I also changed the valve and rocker arms and it remains the same.
hello, I would like to explain my case because I see it as curious to say the least, I have an alfa 147 1.9 jtd 100 hp 135.000 km, I have been with it for 7 years and since the 2nd or 3rd year as a result of a clutch heating when I got stuck, it started to blow my nose that junk noise every time I step on the clutch, only when clutching, well, I've done about 80.000 km since then and about 5 years have passed and it has finally cracked, my question is if the dual mass is not touched, it is advisable to change only the kit or both
I did not know anyone who had put up with the clearance noise for so long (neither the car nor the owner), your contribution is interesting.
If the clutch has stopped working and needs to be replaced, when opening it will be easy for the mechanic to check the condition of the dual mass and if necessary change it. (if your car has it, because I'm not sure that engine is not monomass)
I have a mazda 3 1.6 crtd a matter of a month ago they put the starter motor on it from the first day it was assembled I did not like it as sonava, right now I have it in the workshop because again it is failing sometimes it does not start it slips and there are I had to push it a bit with the gear engaged to engage, and now the mechanic tells me that the flywheel crown is worn on the side, and he tells me that the flywheel has to be put on and it costs €954 without labor. Your question could have been due to a bad placement of the starter motor and you can only change the crown so as not to have to put the entire engine flywheel, thank you, I hope you answer me as soon as possible, since I really need the car
Hello Jose Antonio, in response to your question, it is not possible to assemble only the crown of the steering wheel since it is part of the steering wheel itself in "one piece" (it is not exactly like that, but it cannot be disassembled). You will see it in the photo that heads this article.
On the other hand, it's rare that it's worn... usually the starter pinion fails first.
Finally, a bad placement could have caused the failure of the flywheel, but it is really difficult to put the starter motor wrong since they normally have two or three screws and the engine only enters from one position...come on, I would be surprised if that was the origin , although it cannot be ruled out 100%. Another possibility is that perhaps the first starter motor had a worn pinion and because it was not changed in time, it has also "corrected" the starter flywheel to the point of damaging it.
Thanks Luis then the solution is to mount the engine flywheel
Hello. I have a Touran 1.9 105hp. With 87000 km. My problem is that it's been a car for a year or so when changing gears, when accelerating they scratch and when reducing, they don't or almost don't. I took it to the mechanic and I changed the thrust cylinder but it didn't look good, I kept doing it depending on how not so much and not always. I have noticed that if I let it drop in revolutions it does not scratch anything, both to accelerate and to reduce, what can be the cause, dual mass, clutch synchronizer? (A mechanic told me that it could be that and that he expected to change it together with the timing belt)
Thanks for everything Enrique.
Enric, if it scratches in ALL the gears, the diaphragm is possibly fatigued and when pressing the clutch pedal it does not disengage completely. If he scratches on just one mark, it's probably that synchromesh bad. That fault should be relatively easy to diagnose by testing the car.
regards
Good afternoon everyone,
Searching the internet for the possible problem that my car may have, I have found this thread that I think is the most appropriate to ask.
I have a Ford Focus (2008) 1.8 115cv with about 69.000 km. For some time now, a humming noise has been sounding on the right side of the engine (seen from the driver's side). This buzzing noise intensifies when I exceed 70 km/h. With the car stopped and facing the engine, if I approach it on the left side, I hear the buzzing but with less intensity.
I have tried to depress the clutch once it has exceeded 70 km/h but the sound persists. In addition, I just changed the wheels and the front brakes (in addition to the revision), in case this information is worth something.
Before taking it to the workshop I would like to see if anyone has a slight idea of what it could be, since I have zero knowledge of mechanics.
Also add that sometimes, not always, it is difficult for me to engage the gears, especially if the car is cold.
Thanks in advance.
A greeting.
Thank you very much for the reply. I'll take it to the mechanic so he can tell me. anyway you have to lower the clutch, calculation of money?
I have an Audi a4 tdi 6v from 2002, for a few days now I've been noticing how from time to time when accelerating both on a straight line and on a hill, the car pitches from the front for a couple of seconds, they're not exactly jerky, it stumbles like if it were to stop but it recovers and continues without problems. It doesn't rev or the engine sounds, it's like when you come out of a toll booth in the wet and the car loses traction. It doesn't make noises when idling, it doesn't vibrate, or when I turn it off. Any ideas
Hello, I have a citroen c4 collection 1.6 HDI 92 CV, 3 months ago I changed the injectors and the sensor because it jerked a lot, now today it jerks again, they tell me it's from the dual-mass flywheel, in fact every time that I am going to climb a hill is an odyssey. Is it correct that it could be the dual-mass flywheel? if not, what could it be? Thanks a lot
GOOD MY QUESTION IS I CHANGE THE DIMMER STEERING WHEEL AND THE COMPLETE CLUTCH BUT NOW IT DOES NOT START I HAVE NOT REMOVED ANY DIESEL PIPES OR WIRING IT IS VERY RARE ANYONE WHO CAN HELP ME IS FROM AN OPEL ZAFIRA YEAR 2004 THANK YOU
Hello! I have a Seat Altea tdi 105CV with 170000Km, six months ago a gearbox sprocket had to be repaired and for two months now a cla-cla-cla has been heard like a sewing machine. It only does it when it's hot, with the car hot and after doing a few kilometers. For example: I do a hundred km to go to the mountains during the day and the noise is heard, when I take off the gear it is not heard, and when I return at night and with less temperature, nothing at all. There are no vibrations of any kind. could it be the dual mass? Thank you very much!!!
HELLO I HAVE AN AUDI A3 TDI 2007 S-TRONIC BOX 2007 WITH 152.000 KM, THE CAR VIBRATES IN THE CABIN ON THE ACCELERATION PEDAL ESPECIALLY AT 60-80 KM/H, WHEN I ACCELERATE STRONGLY THE INTERIOR OF THE CABIN VIBRATES A LOT, GOING UP A COST = THE PREVIOUS OWNER HAS ALREADY CHANGED THE DIMMER STEERING WHEEL ABOUT 1 YEAR, WILL IT BE FAILING AGAIN?
GREETINGS
Hello good and I have a peugeot 308 1.6hdi 110cv and since I bought it the first and third gear have been fatal to me...even times they didn't even fit me I had to go back to neutral to put it back in...I went home to They would look at the gear lever and they never saw anything strange and they gave me a long time when I was under warranty and they didn't want to look at my car more thoroughly... now my car is more than 4 years old and has 73000 km... from one day to the next Noticing a noise tell me in the workshop that it was that the clutch was beginning to wear out that same afternoon, it would break. They also told me that the dual-mass flywheel could also be bad.. I feel cheated because the previous problem with the gears will be linked to the wear of the clutch and of course I have lost all the warranty...they have told me that even if they change the clutch and the flywheel, the gears will continue to do so...my question is what could it be about the gears? Said something about the gearbox linkage... and another question, how much would the last joke cost me? Thank you
Hi Luis, we were already in contact on June 3 talking about the steering wheel of the mazda3, I have been with the car in the workshop for 35 days, the mechanic has even imagined me, I think he wants to bend it, I will explain to you today a He hasn't finished it, the mechanic is known to the town, I ask him how much it costs to change the flywheel, he tells me a thousand and something €, I tell him, tell me how much the flywheel costs, and a few days later I go to the workshop and ask him, you know what it's worth the piece and he tells me if you look at it, I wrote it down on the car window, it has eggs, I look and it says €945, total I tell him I can't pay that right now I'm unemployed you can look for second hand he tells me if you don't worry now I call you and tell you,
that after two weeks of being the car in the workshop, he never calls me he opens gone
20 times to the total workshop that I enroll when I see that he does not tell me anything I tell the owner mechanic I buy the part I have one located in Valladolid if there is no problem, it cost me €150, with the part it takes two weeks the car has to be assembled shield, wheels and little else. Luis, my question, could you tell me if you can find out how much the workforce costs to change the flywheel engine for the Mazda 3- 1.6 crtd of the year 2007, because I think my friend the mechanic wants to hit me, thanks and regards. Very good job you do here.
Hello Jose Antonio, the first thing is that from my experience I would never put a second-hand dual-mass unless you know exactly the car that the part came from... in a scrapyard they will hardly give you a guarantee, at most they will give you another part if that goes wrong, but you would have to pay the labor again. Bearing in mind that the new clutch + flywheel kit costs between 600 and 1000 euros depending on the supplier, it is not worth risking disassembly-assembly twice. Regarding the cost of labor, I cannot help you since that depends a lot on each car and workshop. I have never seen the Mazda 3 crtd open, but taking into account that it is practically the same engine that the Peugeots have, I don't think it has any special complications, that is to say... about 4 hours if they are very good at it and about 8 if they are it's bad
On the other hand, the impression I get is simply that the mechanic does not want to put the scrap part on you for fear that it will fail soon and that is why he is dragging you out. This is just my impression...
Hello ! I have a 2007 kia sportage with 90000 km, it does TAC/TAC at idle and the noise disappears when you press the clutch, when stopping the engine it seems that it is going to break, they tell me that it is the biomass steering wheel and that it has to be changed together with the total clutch 1660 € in reality it does not skid and the car runs well especially at high speed, it has started to do so now and they tell me that it can hold, how long? It's so expensive ? Any mechanic knows how to do it? change the flywheel and clutch? Are there a few km for this to happen? Does it affect driving? All the best!
Carmen, there really are only a few km for the dual mass to fail, but I don't know how it has been used or if you have simply had the Chinese. If the clutch does not slip, it can be held like this for a while, depending on how abrupt the vibrations are (something that I cannot know from here). In any workshop they will be able to change it, it is a common fault.
Hello Luis!! I need your wisdom... I'll tell you my problem: I just bought a golf v that seemed to be in mint condition, the interior is amazing how it is, it's even 6 years old and still smells like new. The car has 90000 km and when I went to buy it (from a private individual) he showed me the car when it was very hot and everything was rosy. I was very excited and decided to buy it. The next day when we are going to change the name papers I already take the car home, because I was up late and I didn't pick it up until the next day... What was my surprise?? I started the car and a minute later I started to hear a marble sound in the engine and then my stomach shrank seeing that they had scammed me and that's how it was, I took the car to the workshop and he told me that it was almost certainly the bi-mass flywheel but that It was weird with those km. He already began to think that they had rigged the km account. Well the question that I decide to change the steering wheel because the noise was only heard at idle and every time I heard it it gave me something. The thing that the mechanic advises me to change to monomass and so I have done it but my surprise when I pick up the car that was no longer the one before now I have a tractor, when it accelerated a little it vibrates as if something was loose. Dissatisfied with the repair, I go back to the workshop to tell them that the car sounds horrible and they tell me to drop it back to check it out. I was convinced that there would be some assembly failure (because the marble stopped making noise but the new noise was worse) in short, today he calls me and tells me that the noise comes from the gearbox!! I tell him that it is not possible that before entering the workshop it will not sound and after spending a lot of money it comes out with a worse noise than it had! His answer is that with the bimass he absorbed the noise and now with the mono it accentuates it! I don't know if you're kidding me, and I think we're going to have a discussion. he tells me he's going to try changing the gearbox oil and adding an additive to suppress gearbox noise but he doesn't know how far it can work.
thinking that I have to change gearbox gives me a heart attack!! What is your opinion? In the worst case, the box has to be replaced or can it be repaired? Is the mechanic scamming me or is he telling the truth?
PS: sorry for the speech but I had to vent
I await your wise response! Regards, and thank you very much!
Rodri, in my opinion what you should have done the next day when you noticed that noise (which you say was not there the day before) was to ask the seller to see what happened. Indeed it looked like it was the dual mass and since it is unusual with those km, it is possible that the seller acted in bad faith by masking that expensive fault to sell it and perhaps (and much more seriously) having tampered with the odometer. It's also possible that he didn't know anything...
Returning to the subject, I do not think that this "tractor" touch is because the gearbox is bad, but because the change to single-mass has not been good for it. There are people who put the monomass and it works perfectly and others who have to put a dual-mass again to be able to live comfortably, which is possibly your case.
Now, keep in mind that from here I neither hear nor notice the noises you tell me and the mechanic does, so my diagnosis does not have to be correct. Are there any other symptoms? Does the shift lever move a lot when depressing/depressing the clutch in gear? Do they scratch or are they hard?
Hello, I have a 6-speed Ford Mondeo TDCI and when I step on the clutch, a squeak sounds while it is pressed. My question is the following. Can you change only the collar since the clutch is fine?
Miguel, by proxy of course you can change only the clutch collar. But… are you sure what is wrong?
Hello Luis Gaton, I have changed the complete clutch lot and the dual mass also from an alfa romeo 147. You can imagine the money I have spent. My problems is that once the car has been changed, it leaves the workshop perfect, but as the days go by, the clutch I noticed very smooth, very smooth, and as the days go by, the time comes when I don't get any gear with the car on, I turn it off and all the gears go on. This has happened to me two three times since I completely changed the clutch and all the gears. Sometimes the mechanic is surprised and tells me that it is a bowler hat that he puts on and three times they have changed that bowler hat, could you help me
According to what I have been able to see, there are two bowlers, the one that always gets screwed up is the one that puts it with the car on the lift, I hope you understand my problem and you can help me.
It is the bowler hat that they put at the bottom of the car with the car on the lift because I
It seems that the other can be put with the car on the ground above
From what you say, I understand that air enters the clutch hydrocontrol from somewhere and in the end the pedal ends up getting so spongy that you can't disengage. Either that, or the hub tappet is installed incorrectly. In principle it should be an easy problem to solve….
Hello Luis, I have an Opel Vectra 1.9 CDTI and I notice a small vibration in the clutch when starting on a slope. When starting on the flat or during the gear change at high speed, I don't notice anything. In the Opel SAT they have told me that at idle it sounds slightly and that the dual-mass flywheel has play. My question is how many more km can I do with this defect.
regards
These vibrations when starting on a slope, especially when cold, is a symptom of looseness in the bi-mass. If it's the only problem at the moment (along with the slight rattle at idle, I guess), I'd wait before repairing it as it could still last you a loooong time, depending on how you use the car.
Hello Luis, I need your help, I have an Audi A3 tdi 2.0 170cv S-Tronic 2007 116.300km I bought it second hand with 80.000km 4 years ago. When I'm driving 20-30km\h and I suddenly stop accelerating, I hear a short ratchet-type click, when I accelerate again it makes a kind of push, as if you had engaged a gear and suddenly released the clutch, I don't know if you understand me, I took it to the official workshop and they changed the gearbox oil (at 60.000 it was already changed) the noise is still the same. It does it more in winter than in summer, today I realized, when I got to the garage, that in neutral with the A/C on and the engine hot, when accelerating a little, at about 1.1000rmp, when I stop accelerating Suddenly a long ratcheting noise is heard until it reaches 900rmp and it stops, I close the A/C by lowering the speed of the fan until the air conditioner turns off, and it no longer does, apart from that I notice that from time to time I the oil and coolant leak jumps, between oil changes I consume about 2l of coolant and a liter of castrol longlife 5W30 oil. what I do?
John, in parts:
The two liters of coolant may be because you have a small leak in a hose, in the expansion vessel cap or in the radiator cap itself. If no leak is observed, the head gasket may be quite damaged and in the long run you will have to change it. Does the temperature rise more than necessary?
The liter of oil between oil changes is normal. Just check it from time to time and if you have the can you replenish it.
Noise in the engine is already more complicated. I am not an expert in this automatic gearbox, but if you say that it also does it in neutral, we could almost rule it out, the dual-mass flywheel being a possible culprit. Have you taken it to the shop and all they did was change the oil? Did you test it on the road?
Hello, I'm Miguel and I took the car to the workshop and the mechanic told me that it is the collar and I wanted to put a new one at the time. My question is the following, since the clutch is fine when I put the new collar on, everything would be fine since it would be a dual-mass and just changing the collar would look good
Good day, Luis, greetings from Peru, I have a query, I have read all the comments and there I have answered some that I more or less know, my query is the following, I have a Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2 CRDi, it has 110000 km, I climbed with 6 people on board and at approx 2500 masl it lost power it did not move forward and it smelled of burning I stopped I turned around and the crossing was over. I understood that it was the disc when I made the consultation with a mechanic from the distributor house, he told me that I had to change the entire clutch kit that is disc, plate and collar (also known bearing) but also the flywheel (which is dual mass) and the fuel pump. clutch, on the other hand my trusted mechanic tells me that if it would be the clutch kit (300 dollars approx) and check the flywheel and if it's okay then leave it, and not change the pump just check it, give it a cleaning and maintenance.
When consulting the home mechanic, he told me that doing this (only changing the clutch kit: disc, plate and collar) would cause the disc to break in the short term and he would have to replace everything, since they are new components with the flywheel. used it may not sit well and break down in less than six months without considering that in the first climb to the Andes (considering that the Andes reach in parts up to 5500msnm) it dies, this makes me afraid because at that height there is nothing or nobody to give you a hand and it would be terrible if this happens, the consultation after my presentation is recommended to only change the clutch kit or better to include the flywheel, but of course from 300 dollars to change the clutch kit to 1300 dollars there is a great distance and I would not want to spend so much another possibility is to look for a solid steering wheel but I have not found it anywhere, in short I wait for your suggestion or if someone can share their experience, greetings
Hello, I have a Mazda 6 from 2003 with a diesel engine and the problems were as follows: when braking sharply the engine stopped, as if it stalled, it was revving very high, and it lacked power (at 110km/h it was in 4th ). The mechanic checked the injectors, the diesel pump, the filters, cleaned the tank, etc. and by pouring injector cleaner into several tanks, the problem disappeared. But now when I start the car cold and let it idle, the revolutions begin to go up and down until the engine stops, as if it stalled, unless I stepped on the clutch or accelerated it; As soon as the temperature needle rises a little, the problem disappears. When I stop the engine it does so very abruptly. The mechanic says it's the complete clutch, kit and dual mass, but the truth is that I don't see any relation to it, I'm not saying it's not damaged, the car has 195.000 km, but I don't see any relation to the fault, any idea? Thanks in advance
Alluda immediate please I have a mercedes clace b with 5000 km in first gear to terbla what is it
hello, I have a 10 chevrolet s2003, thick of blow to make a strange noise near the engine and it pulls very little as if it had a broken turbo. Also, when I stop it, the engine slows down as if it were holding a piston. but the mechanics tell me it's not engine noise. Could it be the dual mass clutch? Can the performance of the engine be slowed down due to a breakdown of the bi-mass? thanks hope help
The dual-mass flywheel is not a setback, it eliminates vibrations when using the clutch, and secondly, the price of the clutches is a lie, starting with the mechanics of the house and then those of the normal workshops, the price of a The entire clutch kit with the dual-mass flywheel does not exceed 500 euros, the one for my car, which is a Ford focus 1.8tdci 85kw 115 CV (which in the bank produces 130CV) cost me 370 euros bought directly from Germany and with free transport, so think about it, they have given me a budget of 1200 in a normal workshop, 200 for labor and 1000 for the parts, the kit is from the LUK brand, which in oscaro they ask for 650 or so, in short, a shame
regards
Miguel, the fact that your car has a steering wheel of 300 euros does not mean that there are others of 2.500 euros. And on the other hand, the workshops are like any business…they have a series of fixed expenses that they have to face in some way, expenses that a company that is only dedicated to supplying parts obviously does not have. Is that German supplier going to give you a replacement car? Will you take care of the repair if something goes wrong, or if the part is defective?
It is as if you had a coffee in a bar or if, on the contrary, you decide to receive milk directly from a farmer in Galicia
I put a monomass to the picasso, and no vibrations, no more noise or anything.
I understand that the steering wheel helps absorb vibrations better, but if it is going to break after 10000 km, I don't want it in my car, from the point of view of the conford I prefer vibrations. And mechanically, the difference in vibrations, with respect to a single-mass flywheel, may cause damage in 500000 km or more, and at that point, what more can I ask of a car.
I have a Hyundai Santa Fe crdi 2007. First break, 70000 km, second 110000 km. The last time I directly had it repaired for 20% of the value of the original steering wheel, which in Argentina costs 3500 dollars, and I don't know how long it will last.
It is really a robbery, what the automakers have done is to give expiration date to a part that rarely breaks. It could also be seen as an uncovered increase, because they know that it is a matter of waiting, a month, a year, at the latest two, and they collect the difference. It would be good to find a way for a consumer rights defense organization to frame it as a redhibitory vice and limit its use, since the manufacturers know the damage that sooner or later they will generate to future buyers of the product. vehicle, regardless of how it is used, is designed to fail.
Dear Leonardo, I have a Hyundai Terracan 2.9 163 hp 2006 and the BIMASA broke after consulting the price, I decided to change it for a reform (fixed steering wheel) that consisted of the following, removing the part of the bimass and in its place placing a fixed system manufactured Again, as they explained to me, it is screwed (not welded) to the steering wheel, the truth is that the mechanic put it on about 10 km ago and it turned out very well, without vibrations of any kind and as if it were the BIMASA, that is, I did not notice the difference…I manufacture it in such a way that I leave a space in the center so that a spring-dampened disk can enter (a common disk)…I am very satisfied for two reasons: a) I did not notice the difference and, b) the cost was 25% less than a BIMASA… my advice according to my experience… PLACE A FIXED STEERING WHEEL.-
FORGIVENESS it was not 25% cheaper than the BIMASA steering wheel, but the cost was less than 25% OF THE TOTAL OF THE BIMASA….(the BIMASA plus plate and disc cost me $43.000 and for the reform plus plate and disc both new I paid only % 9.000, in reality less than 25% came out.
Thank you Mario for the contribution of your experience. Today the clutch assembly was lowered to modify it and leave it monomass. It had been recommended to me when I repaired the bimass, but in the workshop where they repaired it they told me that they had many repairs carried out without inconvenience, that's why I decided to repair it and leave it as standard. But I was wrong, a week ago it started to vibrate again so I am going to modify it and leave it single-mass with a damped disc. A hug
Hi Luis, I'll tell you about my problem…I have an Audi 2.0 FSI from 2005, in the city it runs perfect, zero noise at all…but when I hit the road, after traveling more than 15 km in 6th gear, a slight noise begins and increases (clak clak clak, similar to a valve but it is not in the engine), and when accelerating it sounds even louder... this happens in 5th and 6th gear, the strange thing is that when you press the clutch the noise stops... so I have to do the rest of the trip in 6th gear with my foot on the accelerator… a pity for a car like this… the other thing, if I keep it for a few minutes and start again, the sound disappears for another 15 km approximately… reading it may be the bimass, but neither at idle, nor when it is turned off does it make noise, in fact in the city it works perfectly... I hope you can help me, thank you... my email for information and to be able to communicate is sebalandkine@hotmail.com greetings to all.
olle sebastin the same thing happens to me in a seat toledo. when it's cold the car doesn't make any noise and when I'm on the road until the car warms up it starts to make a noise like clack clack clack clack when accelerating but when I step on the clutch it goes away, but also when stepping on the clutch and accelerating it sounds.
Hello everyone,
I'll tell you about my case, I have a 2001 Alhambra, with the car stopped (engine running) everything is normal, I put first gear, well, when I change to second gear and release the clutch, that's when I hear that ratcheting noise... Until I put fourth everything goes more or less well, but here the car begins to shake that seems to want to expel me out the window, it is not vibrating. This happens to me when I'm accelerating, if the car is shaking and I stop accelerating, it also stops shaking...
Could you please help me diagnose the problem? Is it just the mace? Is it the bimass? If you need more data, which is possibly the case, do not hesitate to ask, I want to fix it as cheaply as possible... These are very bad times.
Thanks in advance!
Julen, if it vibrates so much and sounds like a ratchet, the bimass has a lot of ballots... how many km does it have?
Hi Luis, I have a 5 Citroen C2.0 110 HDI 2003 hp with 220.000 km. My clutch pedal vibrated and I took it to the citroen dealer where I bought it, the owner came out to test it with me and as soon as I put the second one the clutch pedal stayed down I unlocked it with my foot and the pedal stayed hard with which the collar was broken. I was thinking of changing the clutch kit but he advises me to also put the single-mass flywheel on it because surely the dual-mass has slack since it sounded when you had the car in neutral with the engine running when you stepped on the clutch a bit like a scratch and the pedal vibrated a bit. What do you advise me? to change the bimass, to put a monomass. Is it normal for this to happen? Do you advise me to change everything, steering wheel and clutch? Thank you, regards Jose Luis
Jose Luis, those km that you say are enough for the car to have some noise or parasitic vibration. Get a budget for only the clutch kit and the dual-mass + kit, separate the labor… and do the math yourself. Since you necessarily have to change the clutch kit, it is easy to diagnose the state of the dual-mass once it has been removed. Keep in mind that you say that "it sounds a bit" and from here I cannot know how much that is.
Regarding the conversion to monomass, ask the dealer what experiences they have had with that model since each car is different, in some the conversion does not give problems and in others it disassembles the car to vibrations... I am sorry I cannot give you a clear answer
Hello Luis, I have a Seat León 1.9 TDI 105cv ecomotive with 135.000 km from 2008, and the clack clack clack noise is made when stationary, engine at idle speed, but when I step on the clutch the noise disappears completely. No vibrations, neither stopped nor in movement. Dual mass, bearing,...?
Hello, I have tried a golf v with 133000 km and it took a little while to start and I am worried that it is the dual mass and the man took it to the workshop and says that it is the battery, he also told me that he had the dual mass disconnected that he had it on a fixed plate. I would like you to explain me advantages and disadvantages
Good Morning.
I have a Seat Ibiza bought new in 2003 and it currently has 315000 km. Since yesterday, every time I step on the clutch pedal, the car makes a noise like a drill and stops completely every time I take my foot off the clutch.
I have read a lot in this very interesting forum and I know that the cause is in the clutch, dual mass or the thrust bearing or in all of them. is it so? What is your opinion?
If it were the case, how much could a repair of all this cost me? I ask you because I have doubts about whether I should buy a new one or continue with my beloved Ibiza….
Thanks for this great forum.
A greeting.
Good morning, I just bought an opel vectra 1.9. Cdti with 150 hp from 2004. The dual-mass flywheel was changed with 130000 km. And now it has 153000. The car runs fine but when cold the gears don't fit very well, especially the 2 that scratches a little, but when hot they fit without problems. I just bought a 75-80 valve, which is the one that comes with opels, but I can't find the filler cap on the opel's gearbox. I have noticed that the emptying screw is a little past, so I think they have changed it. My question is this. Why do cold gears go bad and hot gears go well? And where is the gearbox filler cap located? Thank you very much and let's see if together we can fix the cars hehehe
I have a bmw x3 drift 2.0 manual and with 160.000 km. When accelerating in second gear up to 4000 rpm the engine began to gargle and lost power.
I noticed that from then on there are a lot of vibrations and sometimes it's hard to engage the gears.
The mechanic told me that it is dual-mass and that it will be about 1200 euros.
If anyone can contribute anything I would appreciate it.
Regards and thanks in advance.
Hello, I have a 10 chevrolet s2011, it runs perfect, it only makes noise when the engine is stopped. They told me that it is the broken dual mass. I wonder how long can I walk like this? The changes enter perfect and the clutch does not slip. Will I be able to use it without problems like this? Or do I have to change the dual mass and the entire clutch?
A car with damaged dual mass can work like this almost indefinitely, but the logical thing is to repair it because the symptoms will gradually worsen until you practically cannot use the car.
Good afternoon, I have a 140 Touran TDI 2005 DSG with 210.000 km.
I have read a lot of topics, but I still have doubts, so I present my case.
Between 80 and 130 km/h when accelerating for the car to pick up speed, the engine trembles and becomes more and more trembling, if I take my foot off the accelerator instead the tremor/vibration stops and the car runs fine, so I rule out alignment steering and wheel balancing, at idle it trembles a little, what it does is like small oscillations that move the car a little.
I doubt if it is the dual mass flywheel, bearings, silent block or constant velocity joint.
If anyone else has had this problem and can help me I would be grateful.
Gracias y saludos.
That symptom you describe can come from several places, and since it is automatic, the diagnosis is even more difficult because you cannot put the neutral point or disengage the clutch to rule out parts of the kinematic chain. I think that the workshop should give you a good diagnosis, because without trying it it's complicated, it's essential to see what those vibrations are like.
Hello good day. First of all, thanks for the article, it helps the uneducated like me to try to understand what it is. The fact is that a few days ago I noticed some vibrations in the area of the driver's pedals. With fear I took it to the workshop to see what it was. They have changed 1 engine support that was broken. When doing the test with the mechanic to see if it had been removed, here is the noise or vibration. I notice it mostly in 4th gear at around 2000rpm, but it's also audible in 5th gear. In shorter marches I do not appreciate it. It is a 2006 ford focus 1.8 TDCI 115cv. It has 205.000 km and I am almost sure that the clutch is the original one. I do about 20.000 km/year on it (now, before, I did more) and they have told me that it could be Bimassa but that it should hold on a bit. Obviously in a car that is almost 9 years old and those km I am afraid of spending that money and that something else will come out later. I have looked at second-hand or scrapyard options and things change from 800-odd euros to €300. My driving is "light" but not excessively aggressive either. Based on the symptoms that people describe, I would say that this is it, in addition to what the mechanic says, but as always, without disassembling they do not assure you anything.
what recommendation would you make me? New? Second hand? Switch to monomass? I am a sea of doubts!!
If you have already taken it to the workshop and they have not been right, I suspect that the vibrations are small and of little gravity. For this reason, I think you should stick with the car longer until the symptoms become more apparent before letting more things rush to change. It can be from gearbox bearings to various engine/box/shaft supports and of course also dual-mass. Another thing, in my opinion I would never put a scrapping dual-mass unless you know exactly the origin of the "donor" car. In the long run, labor will be more expensive than material.
Hello everyone.
I would like to thank you for everything I am learning with you about clutches, dual-mass and single-mass.
I have a 307 hdi 110cv with 100.000km that when it finishes starting it makes a metallic noise as if something were rubbing. This noise also occurs occasionally when once I put first I release the clutch. With the rest of the gears it doesn't happen to me.
I have taken the car to several workshops and some tell me about the dual mass, others about the collar and some have even told me about the starter motor, but no one assures me that it can be. The fact is that the car, at the moment, works perfectly and the clutch is strong.
What do you think it may be?
Regards, and thank you very much
Paco.
Paco could indeed be any of the three elements. I would almost rule out the collar, but it could be the starter motor and of course the dual-mass (which is what has the most ballots). Almost always when the symptom is not clear in a workshop, it is usually because it is not obvious and the most reasonable thing (economically speaking) is to wait a bit. If it is the dual mass, it will sound more and more, and if it is the collar, other symptoms will appear (snorting, rubbing, etc.)
Good evening and thanks for the help. I have a 2003 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCI 115 hp. For some time now when stepping on the clutch at a standstill it makes a ratcheting noise and now I have begun to notice that the change at high speeds also sounds like it scrapes a lot. This only does it sometimes, the question is what can it be? And the second, since the car is old and has 260000 km, is it possible that it can hold up in these conditions or is it foreseeable that it will leave me stranded? Otherwise the car runs very well and the clutch does not slip at all. Thank you
The symptom seems quite clear of bimass. In the short term, it's not easy for it to leave you stranded, but if you intend to continue with the car, you should repair it without waiting too long to prevent vibrations, knocks and looseness from affecting other parts such as the gearbox and the engine.
I tell you my case. Skoda Superb with 1.9CV 130 TDI engine, the VW classic, 10 years old and 86000kms.
I am the first (sole) owner, all revisions passed. I passed the ITV without any requirement a week ago.
The following week I notice a strange noise when passing 1a. to 2a., I try to reproduce the noise/problem but I can't. The next day, I had a long trip, 1400km in one go to Germany, I do it without any problem, car with power, no noise, everything normal, practically all highway (130kms), even I did not hear noises/vibrations when stopping or tolls.
Upon reaching my destination, I enter the city, I slow down and the noise reappears. I park, open the hood and hear the clack-clack-clack as if something is broken and hitting with the idle of the engine. In the change, small vibrations when engaging / disengaging from 1st. to 2a. Similar to when you go in 5a, you reduce speed but not the march. At that point, I stop the car, wait 5 sec and turn it back on and the noise/vibration is gone.
The next day I start it and drive with it, no symptoms again.
The clutch has not given me any problem, nor has the gearbox, they are like the first day, very fine. It does not consume any oil either, the engine is very good.
Since I have taken care of it and the little km. that this failure surprises me, I await your comments and recommendations on what to do.
Now I'm in Germany, I've asked the dealer (Skoda/Audi) and they tell me 2500eur, of course Spanish outside the house, it seems like a robbery to me. Is it worth fixing? Thanks.
Jose, due to the symptoms you describe and the price of the repair, it is very likely that they will do the typical clutch+collarin+dual-mass kit repair. I don't know how long you're going to be away from home, but it's very unlikely that in the short term it's going to leave you stranded, so in my opinion I think you can hold out until you get home and consider the repair more calmly and in consultation. prices.
Luis, many thanks for your comments. I am considering looking at other unofficial garages here, since the German issue is a plus (more expensive labor) and another is the garage, which is shared by Skoda/Audi, so I imagine that I can have much cheaper prices.
Good afternoon, I bought a 2006 Ford focus and at first it was going very well, but after a few months it started to give me a fault when I go to one hundred or one hundred and twenty it revs only to five thousand laps in thousandths of a second and then it returns only at two thousand. We took it to the workshop and they changed the clutch, which by the way was new but it was not the original one and they said to change it for theirs, but the car continues doing the same. I would be grateful if someone has experienced something similar or the same, because we are crazy because they do not find the problem. Thank you
Lorenzo, what you describe is quite strange. I suppose that when you say that the engine only goes up to 5.000 RPM, not only does the needle go up, but you actually hear the engine hit an acceleration (come on, to rule out the failure of the dashboard). Is the car manual? Because if so, it should be the clutch (worn out, that the hub does not apply enough pressure, or that oil leaks from the gearbox or through the crankshaft seal). If they have opened the clutch I have to assume that there are no leaks because they would have seen it. If they have changed the clutch, am I to assume they have fitted a complete new kit correctly?
Hello Luis. Hope you're well.
I have a 2.0 passat 2006 fsi with a DSG box with 185.000 km.
The symptom that I am having is that when the car is not in gear (in P or N) the car vibrates. When the gear is on and the car drives (in D, in S or tiptronic) or even stopped by pressing the brake or with auto hold, nothing vibrates.
Will it be the bimass? The only thing that changed so far is the plugs and nothing.
Thanks a lot for your help
Hmmm… without seeing and going those vibrations it is difficult to diagnose. No noises? A priori I would not go for the dual mass, but for some support or simply that the idle is out of adjustment when there is no load, but of course, without seeing it...complicated.
hello good afternoon I have a lagoon 1.9 dci 120 and when I accelerate in second or third it revs up and stretches after a while and if I accelerate slowly it doesn't do it and when it goes from 121o it does too
Diego, what you say is typical of a slipping clutch. As soon as the engine torque exceeds the torque that the clutch can withstand, the clutch slips. This happens when accelerating hard in low gears or in high gears when trying to recover speed. Normally it is time to change the clutch kit, although it could be other things (leakage of the crankshaft seal or gearbox, etc.). IF it just slips and there are no other symptoms, I don't see why they are thinking of dual mass.
I don't know why I don't understand but I have been told that it could be the bimass
I would appreciate it if you advise me in any way you can, many thanks
good night. I have a c5 II diesel from 2004. For about 2 months with the car idling nothing can be seen, but when you press the clutch it makes a little noise, when you release it it makes like a crack crack and when you put 1st the crack crack is much greater They look like rolling cans, I have no idea of mechanics. What can be
Fran, it seems a fault symptom in the bimass.
Good afternoon,
I bought a second-hand Golf V 1.9TDI 6 months ago, last week it broke down and I took it to the workshop. The mechanic told me it was the clutch and the biomass. Now he has changed it (biomass, he has replaced it with a monomass) and the car makes a noise that sounds like a tractor. He tells me that it could be that a crank has bent or that a piston has gone, but he is not sure. Can someone give me some information? Thanks in advance.
Manu, you should listen and feel that noise it makes, but the impression it gives me is that the change from dual-mass to single-mass has not done your car any good. Was it making that noise before the clutch change? If it didn't, that's almost certainly it. On this website you will read comments from other people who have gone through the same thing. Was it the mechanic who advised the change to monomass? It could be that he is giving you long with other failures (rod, etc.) so as not to have to take care of a new clutch repair.
Thanks Luis,
In the end, as the mechanic told me, the noise came from the starter motor. They have also had to change it and it seems that they had mounted one that was not the same.
Hello, very good! I would appreciate it if you could inform me of a doubt I have.
I have a citroen jumpy 2.00 120cv. From 2008. The problem you have is the following; Once started, every time I try to raise it back to over 3.000 revolutions, it starts to vibrate progressively without letting me turn it up. Once on the road, at 5^ or 6^, it does not do so after 100km/hour.
It's not alignment! Not balanced!
My question is this; Could it be the dual mass clutch?
Or if this van has anti-vibration bearings in the transmission and it could be in poor condition. CHEERS! I hope your opinion thanks
It happens to me in a BMW 318 tds from 1995 with 195.000 km that the clutch and the transmission go very, very well, but when accelerating in second and thirteenth between 1500 and 3500 rpm it vibrates quite a lot as if the axis of the right wheel was loose ,but it only happens in those gears and at those revolutions…in fifth and fourth it is very noticeable and in first gear it doesn't do anything, not even at 5000 rpm, at 5000 nothing vibrates in any gear…..I smell the dual mass but I don't know. .or maybe it is that they have put the monomass and it does not go well…or it is the right wheel…but I have checked the wheel and the axle seems fine, what is it?…also when starting it makes a lot of noise and vibrates a lot from gear/clutch area...
I forgot, at idle nothing vibrates
Hello good afternoon, I have a Ford focus with 237.000 km for a few months I hear that ratchet and recently it is difficult for me to put first gear and reverse, yesterday I took it to the mechanic and mw comments that it is the clutch and the dual-mass engine flywheel, he charges me little more than €800 but I tell him that I don't have that amount now and he advises me to leave it until it breaks completely, can someone give me some advice or a word of encouragement thanks in advance
Eri, ever since you started hearing that rattle, the fault was there. Now the symptoms have gotten so bad that you can hardly get into some gears anymore... unfortunately that can almost be considered "breaking completely". If you are going to charge 800 euros for dual-mass and clutch kit, it doesn't seem expensive to me.
Now the personal situation of each one, that you have to assess yourself.
regards
Luis
Today's seat is also carried by bimass.
By the way I don't know if you have tried the new seat leon. If so, what is your opinion?
The engines are wolskwagen, thanks
Hi Luis,
I have a Primera 2.2 di 126cv with 175000 kms that for some time has begun to cost me to enter some speeds. The mechanic has told me that it is the biomass steering wheel, although apart from this I do not detect any more symptoms or noises. Could you tell me what you think about it?
Greetings and thank you.
Miguel, it could be the dual mass, but it could also just be the clutch kit.
Louis changing the subject. I want to ask you a question. Once a year it is good to put a bit of oil when filling the diesel tank. To lubricate the injector pump. The oil is the same as the one in the engine.
If you write from Spain, the answer is NO, current fuels more than meet what the injection system needs. If you write from another country, I don't know the qualities that they distribute in other places, I'm sorry.
Hello to all the forum members, I would like km to help the ksma problem raised. I have a fort mondeo from 2004 with 54000 kilometers, for a few days I have noticed a noise that is not very big but it is annoying, it does it when starting and especially when you step on the clutch in the middle of it, that is when it does it the most, the noise It is small. I would like km to say where that noise comes from. Thank you.
Hello to all foreros. I would like you to help me with the problem that has been presented to me. I have a fort mondeo from the year 2004 with 54000 kilometers, for a few days I have noticed a noise that is not very big but it is annoying, it does it when starting and especially when pressing the clutch in the middle of it, that is when it does it the most, the noise it is small. I would like you to tell me what that noise is coming from. Thanks in advance.
Hello, I have a Citroën c5 with 254.000km and this weekend when I took it out of the parking lot it stalled and the clutch went flat (I assumed it was the broken clutch because I had been hearing a buzz and vibrations every time I stepped on the clutch for a few days ). But the problem was that when I got to the shop with the tow truck, we tried to start the car and there is no way to start it. Then I would like to know if the one that does not start could be due to the clutch or that it is for another reason which I do not know.
I have also read that this model has a dual-mass clutch.
Possibly broken clutch lifter and hub. The bi-mass has signs of being touched as well, but since they are going to have to separate the gearbox to change the clutch kit, they can check it at the moment.
Thanks for the reply!! So that could be the reason why it doesn't start, right? It is that at first glance they do not know what it is and they have not wanted to get their hands on it because it is not going to be that it was not that. And the workforce would have to pay for it
As always, you have to keep in mind that I am neither seeing nor hearing your car, so my diagnosis is only based on experience. I suppose you have the clutch kit and flywheel so bad that the starter can't do its job right, but it could be other things too, from timing to fuel pump failure, injection, etc. By "statistics" it is unlikely that two faults have coincided at the same time, so I opt for the clutch. Hearing the noise it makes when trying to start and ruling out other symptoms, I think the mechanic should dare to give you an answer.
Hello. I was reading the post and comment a little about the problem I have with my car.
I have a 2.0 Insignia 140cdti 2014hp, the car now has 17000km. What happens is that after 130km I start to notice a strange vibration in the car, It doesn't come from the steering wheel (even if you feel it).
The vibration is very soft but at the same time annoying because it is as if you had a deformed tire. I have already done the balancing in three different places and the Opel people tell me that they do not feel anything strange in the car.
The vibration is felt in the passenger compartment and is more noticeable when you are going at a constant speed and you are not pulling the engine. Rolling, in neutral it also does it, but a little less.
A well-known mechanic told me that it could be the dual-mass flywheel that is having problems. I really don't know what to think because the car is new and I've already driven about 5000km like this.
In Opel they say that it is impossible for a clutch to go away with only 12000km that the car had when the problem started. One more fact, there are no strange noises or the clutch slips. There is only that vibration.
Thank you very much for any clarification that can help me.
Regarding the previous comment, I forgot to mention that every time you try to start it, you hear a quite big noise but there is no way to start the car. The noise is like a ratchet
Hello, I wanted to ask you a question. I have a 2007 seat Leon with 129000km and a year ago I started having problems with the gearbox. I skipped 5th gear and they fixed the gearbox and the clutch kit, and the car also went away. It was going well but it made a loud noise at idle and when you step on the clutch but it's not always sometimes especially when you make long trips and we take it to the tayer but since it doesn't make noise they always don't know what it is and it's a reliable tayer He has looked several times and nothing is going all right and he doesn't account for the noise...but then we stopped hearing the noise and yesterday we made a trip of 500km and we heard it again but halfway through the trip we stopped and when we started it didn't already and this morning I took it and it doesn't do it either... it doesn't always do it but when it does it sounds as if the car had a can inside. If you can help me thanks
Lau, you should hear that "can" noise, but the symptom seems to be of dual mass. If they have not found it in the workshop, there will be no choice but to wait for the symptom to become more evident.
Hello, I have a Golf IV and when I want to accelerate it revs up and has a hard time accelerating. I've been told it's the clutch slipping. It has 230.000 km. It can be that? and they have given me a quote for a dual-mass flywheel plus clutch and another for a normal kit. In any case, they have told me that when they disassemble it they see what needs to be replaced. There is a difference of €400. What do you advise me? Thank you.
Juan Carlos, when you say "normal kit", what do you mean? To a monomass? If so, no one will be able to tell you for sure if the change to monomass is going to suit the car or you will have to change it again due to excessive vibrations, in this article you will be able to read comments for all tastes. On the other hand, not always when the clutch slips it is essential to change the dual mass, sometimes simply with the clutch kit is enough.
Hello, I told you the other day I ran out of clutch and then I took him to the workshop and they bled him out because he had no liquid and he had air but after a few days I ran out of clutch again (I mean he started the car and stepped on the clutch and it's very soft that is due to that problem my car is an opel astra comfort) greetings
Hi, I have a Ford Transit 97. Two weeks ago, I took the enbriage when I put the change in third gear. I feel that the car vibrates and when I reduce speed to third gear, it vibrates that it could be the mechanic told me that it could be the rocking of the wheels.
Hello, I have an Audi A6 Multitronic from 2009. It has a metallic noise, only at idle and when hot. Could it also be the dual-mass flywheel or because it has the multitronic gearbox, is there any difference.
Thanks in advance
In a Subaru Outbak they changed the bimass to me under semi-guarantee at 80.000 km, and at 150.000 km it broke again. So I put together a single-mass kit and much better than with the dual-mass: the car has better acceleration, more clutch feel, and after 140.000 km it continues to work perfectly.
ENGINEERS! What the hell is dual-mass used for? In addition to turning an eternal part into an expensive wear item. This is called planned obsolescence, and I think it's illegal.
Hello, I have an OPEL INSIGNIA and they jerk me in second and third gear, for example. I go up from second to third and I keep accelerating and if I release my foot from the accelerator almost as a traffic jam approaches it starts to jerk or in first gear when I'm accelerating the engine starts to choke almost as if it runs out of diesel.
Has anyone had these symptoms, the car has 117 km. Problem may be from the famous DIMALS OR CLUTCH
Can someone tell me something before spending the money on dual mass or clutch.
Very good I have a vw sharan 2005 there is no clak-clak at idle only vibration of the steering wheel and when I stop the car with the key.
Could it be the dual mass???
Thank you
hello good I have a ford mondeo 2003 tdci 244000 thousand km I bought it 2 weeks ago and when I tried it on the street at 50 or 60 km per hour it did not make noise coming home on the highway when the famous clac-clac-clac started to stop I looked and disassembled the gearbox and the thrust bearing, it was bad, but I also bought the pressure plate and the clutch, everything was fine, today I started it up and it doesn't make the loud clack-clack-clack noise as it used to, but it does a lot less Now I ask, can it be the dual mass? If it is the dual mass it can destroy the new parts that I put on it (bearing, pressure plate and disc)
Hello, I have a question. I have an Altea xl and I have a lot of vibrations when I accelerate and at high speeds, and my question is, if the biomass is bad, can I also increase consumption? Esqe since then the car consumes me more, thanks
I have a Renault, fluence, 2011 and the clutch slips, it takes time to enter the speeds, they tell me it's the Dual Mass Flywheel, I already bought the collar and it's still the same, I want to know if it can be the dual mass flywheel and where I can get it
Hello everyone, noises the worst nightmare, see if someone can give me some idea I have a golf 7 dsg tdi 150 of scarce 1 year and 10700 km today. Very happy with it because it is very smooth but….suddenly I began to notice some slight vibrations in the throttle, especially at low revolutions that are discontinuous and even the steering wheel gives me the feeling of not going so smooth. I haven't been home yet since it's only been a few days. Does anyone have an idea thanks
I assume you have gone to the house to have it looked at, since the car should be under warranty.
Hello, I have a Chevrolet Astra Enjoy 1.9, year 2008. 96.000 km. A few months ago it started with problems, finally it was an alternator and I replaced it with the original. After the change, it began to have a very ugly noise when starting it (as it sounds when you start a vehicle that already has the engine running). They told me it was the starting engine. As the car hardly used it, suddenly it stopped sounding, but after a couple of weeks, it started with a knocking, according to me, in the engine. They took it apart and told me it was a clutch and a dual-mass flywheel. The kit + the steering wheel is very expensive (2.700.000 harvest). Is everything that has happened to him related? What dou you recommend? Thank you very much!
Hello Ale, did you get any answer?
I am in the same situation, and these opel (chevrolet), sifren dual-mass flywheel and it is not recommended to repair... now the cost is excessive, I think it can be imported from Spain for less than half...
Hello, let's see if anyone can help me. I have a Seat Leon 2. The problem I have is that when I drive a few kilometers the gears don't engage well, especially when parking, the reverse gear scratches me a lot. It only does it once you've driven a few miles, not at first. All the best,
Francisco, the first thing you should do is check the oil level in the gearbox, to see if it's getting low and it's a dilation problem. Does it leave drops of oil where you park it?
hello, we have a peugeot 306 hw 1,6 hdi, from 2004 with 158.000 km. my son says that the car jerks from time to time, I have not noticed it, but I have noticed when I go in 2nd gear like a rubbing (buzzing) of the bearing otherwise it does not give any problem my question is: can it be the dual mass???? or something else the car travels about 80 km per day
the grinding noise disappears when I depress the clutch
I have changed the gearbox, I have put the clutch kid and the binasa flywheel, the car entered the workshop on foot as soon as I finished working, once these parts are put in there is no way to start it, well it starts but it lasts 2 seconds and it stops, can someone help me, thanks
FORD TRANSIT. 2004
good louis
I just changed the 3-piece clutch kit (dual mass). I took it and it was great. Very smooth and very good. I did 100 km to get home and when I left it idling you can hear that metallic noise, quite loud. Very annoying. And I notice the pedal is no longer as smooth as when I took it. I would like to know your opinion before I take it again.
Jose, I understand that when you say "changed the 3-piece kit" you mean pressure plate, clutch disc and thrust bearing. Or have you also changed the dual mass flywheel? If you have not changed the dual-mass, it has many ballots to be so, but it is strange that when changing the clutch they did not realize that the dual-mass was on its last legs.
Jose, maybe you have touched a sensor, such as the position sensor and it does not make good contact, hence it starts and stops for no apparent reason.
Hi, I have a 2006 passat and it makes noise, but only when hot and hardly any vibration, it could be the dual mass
Good Luis. Let me tell you so you can clarify. I have a Mondeo tdci. A few days ago when I released the clutch it began to vibrate at mid-pedal and make a not very loud noise, like a ratchet. When I fully press the pedal it disappears .It does it especially at idle and when the pedals are running they have a slight vibration. The gears fit well, they don't jump or scratch or anything like that. They tell me that it may be the dual mass that is starting to fail. I would like to hear your opinion. Thank you beforehand
Hello
For a few months the car has been making some noises.
They are noises that appear and disappear, making clack clack clack.
I have observed that at high temperatures (35º in the afternoon) they are produced less than in the morning at 20º on the street.
I have also noticed that when I turn the steering wheel a little to the right it goes away, returning when I turn slightly to the left or straighten.
The gears engage well, and the noise appears more frequently also with high gears in relation to speed.
When it sounds, it doesn't go away when you step on the clutch.
It is an Opel 1.3 CDTI from 2006.
Could it be flywheel?
Thanks in advance
My experience is as follows: Octavia 1.9 DSG. At approx 160.000 kms it was diagnosed and the right and left engine blocks were changed. The problem with the DSG is that the test of putting the first gear at a standstill until it stalls and seeing how the engine vibrates is not possible. For anyone who notices it, the key is at the start: with those studs touched when starting, it makes a considerable instantaneous vibration. When it goes away little by little, we don't notice it, but once the engine blocks have been changed, it shows a lot. Also a constant velocity joint was rusty (as you can hear... water got in...) and when accelerating hard it made a clo-clo-clo and it wasn't dual mass at all. Changed and now it works more or less well (it's still not fine)
Now with 170.000 the problem is vibrations: on the highway from 120 km/h up to the top, the steering vibrates and you can also feel it on the pedals. No sound symptoms. In somewhat strong accelerations, for example on climbs from 60 km/h to 90 km/h, it vibrates and is noticeable in the steering wheel, pedals and the interior rearview mirror. If you release the parasol from one side you will see how it vibrates. I have not been able to reduce this yet. It doesn't sound like dual mass. Could it be the other central motor mount? when changing the other two in the trusted workshop they said it was OK.
What is left for me to review?
Thank you and I hope the experience of vibration problems will help others
Hello, good evening, I would like to know if I can change from dual-mass to single-mass. I have a saab tdi 1900 150cv and it is the second change that I have to do
Good afternoon, thanks for this thread, it has helped me a lot. It seems that my Ford C-Max TDci 1.6 (105hp) from 2007 with 85.000 km has problems with the dual-mass flywheel. Now you just notice that when you turn off the car it makes a clack, clack, clack. It has been happening since I picked it up from the 80.000 revision and they told me it was the flywheel. I've driven 5 kilometers since then and I don't notice anything new, my idea is to hold out until the clutch starts to show signs of failure, while I'll ask for quotes for the change to dual-mass, single-mass, factory parts or parts wholesaler. It will depend on prices to make one or another repair, I prefer the monomass but I would like to continue reading opinions in relation to this. I would also like to hear from other people who have put miles on a damaged steering wheel like mine to have more data on how long they can last. Greetings and thank you very much in advance.
Hi everyone
I went to the shop and it was the steering rack.
With 60.000 km on my focus tdci the clutch noises started in May in Denia I had to change it in a trusted workshop, A Pasta, change to monomass I consider the assembly of THIS INVENTION THAT ONLY SERVES TO LOOSEN UP THE MANUFACTURER theft PURSE.
Hello Simon, if it's not too much to ask, how much did the repair cost you? What have you done to him? Flywheel + clutch? Original or another brand? Thanks.
Greetings to all, I have a Ssangyong Action Sport 2012, when I start in the morning a trac trac sounds and that sound is heard again when I go by road or trail, the mechanic tells me that it is the dual-mass steering wheel, I would like to know, if someone had some experience changing it for a single-mass flywheel.
Hi all!
I have a 2011 Ssangyong Actyon Sports.
About 15 days ago I went through a stretch (I was almost stopped) and then immediately the gears began to be very, very hard to engage.
I got to spend days without being able to pass the 1st, 3rd and 5th... I changed the gearbox oil and the gears engaged again, but hard and scratching a lot.
yesterday I ran out of clutch… The pedal went down and stayed down. The change was stuck in second and so I was able to take it to a known workshop (the truck was running but without force, very weak)
The diagnosis is that I have to change the clutch kit (okay) and the floating flywheel (I don't agree, since the truck NEVER presented the symptoms described for problems with the dual-mass flywheel here... NOTHING jerky, it doesn't click clack…
What do friends tell me?
Greetings from a Brazilian in Chile!!
Good evening, look, I am dedicated to the repair of clutches in general, I specialize in heavy and industrial service, but I have been repairing and modifying dual-mass flywheels for a few years now, which is the most correct thing to do, but it has its drawbacks, a dual-mass flywheel, its main function is to cushion the revolutions of the engine to the transmission since today's engines are very powerful so when modifying it is necessary that the disk (bearing) has springs so that it dampens the revolutions somewhat also that the operator tries to handle with more care since as when the The car had a dual-mass steering wheel and they released the pedal, its takeoff was smoother, it did not feel so much that it threw you back when you put a monomass on it, if you are going to feel its takeoff faster, it is also important if they make the change for a replacement kit that they sell is the The weight of the kit they brought is almost the same as the one they are going to put on, since if they add more weight or take away weight, everything is reflected in the motorcycle's base r that is why I make the modification in the same steering wheel so that the weight is the same but they never want to weld it since when welding it they will be undoing the steering wheel the faults of the clutch can be very varied the most recommended thing is when they make the change of clutch of the type that is plate, disc, collar, flywheel rectification and pilot bearing rectification is recommended since the previous disc left the surface with settlement and the new one has another and the period of molding can be long this causes that when taking off the car vibrate
I have a VW JETTA 1.9 TDI 105 from 11/2008 engine code BXE that I change at 160.000 km with the clutch that cost me about 1.300 EUROS and I already put about 30.000 km on the dual mass changed and it rings again to ring But now, more than the standard car, I premiered it by taking a vacation trip of 9000 km in a month and 1 week, I don't think it was because of that.
There is already a place where they are repairing them in the city of Guadalajara with the turbine rebuilder (HRC) they have already repaired some and they have the same operation and are much cheaper, the number in case you have a question or something is (33) 38111161
Hello hello I repaired flyers bimasses if you want to consult +543644661451 I left my WAP app
I am from Argentina if I can help you with any questions I am at your disposal +543644661451 m WhataWhatapp
I have a Fiat sedici 1.6 16V 4×4 emotion, with 90.000 km and 8 years. Four years ago I had this breakdown and they changed my flywheel (more than €1000, parts and labour). AND IT HAS BROKE AGAIN, and they have to change it again!!! Can someone tell me if this is normal, if there could be a cause or if it has happened to someone else. Thank you
Hello, and I changed, I saw mass collarin and clutch kis. And now when I start and stop the car it makes a strange noise. And the mechanic tells me that it is normal that it takes a few days for that noise to go away because you have to like the pieces. that may be true.
I have an opel vectra c and the clutch has stayed behind and it does not go back, although with the hand, it does.. also when pressing the clutch fully, a noise sounds and it happens when I hear it, is it the dual mass?
I had a 1.9 2007 diesel Zafira that was disarmed by the automaker because of the noise, and they told me it should be changed, but the cost is very high...
If I put it back together, how long will it last? The noise is only sometimes and slowly...
can someone advise me, thanks
Hello Luis, I have an opel corsa c 1.3 cdti from 2006 and I have about 200.000km. For a year I have noticed that sometimes when starting it was difficult and made that typical ratchet noise; other times it starts on the first try. Sometimes it also makes that noise when you turn off the ignition, but on the road I don't notice any anomaly when driving or stepping on the clutch. Lately it either starts on the first try or it hangs and I have to try several times. A mechanic told me once that it must be the starter motor but there are already two other mechanics who have told me that it is the dual mass. They ask me for almost €1500 putting the whole kit with the clutch and the truth is that I don't know if it's worth it because of the age of the car.
Would it be dangerous to hold on with the car like this since driving doesn't cause problems or should I repair it?
Greetings and thank you very much in advance.
Hello. Mazda 3 gasoline. 2.0 engine. 90.000 km. It is observed that the clutch slips until the car stops due to lack of traction. Smell of charred ferodo. I don't smoke. No strange noises or difficulties when engaging the gears. I'm taking it to the shop tomorrow. I don't know if it has a dual mass flywheel or not.
I guess everything will have to change
CLUTCH FAILURE + DUAL-MASS FLYWHEEL:
I have come to this forum as a result of the surprise of €2.300 (VAT already included) that the workshop where I bought the OPEL Astra GTS 1.4 Turbo (OFFICIAL dealer: Opel Reprís de Gran Vía corner Viladomat in Barcelona) just gave me. The car has completed its 4th year (mantle check 2 months ago), it is very well cared for, it has only 22.000 km, I use it very little (practically nothing in the city) and only me. Maximum highway speed of 120 km/h. It is the 4th car that I have and the most careful since I am about to retire and nothing like it has ever happened to me.
The fact is that on Three Kings' Day we were 4 people in the car and I had to park on a very steep street. I did have to play with the clutch and throttle for a short time. When leaving I noticed an unpleasant smell (like friction) that also penetrates the passenger compartment. When I got back home 4 hours later, the smell came back. As for the gear change, I have never noticed any looseness or slipping, and not even after this circumstance.
The next day I took it to the workshop, and upon arrival the smell was noticed again. And today they told me by phone that I have to change the CLUTCH AND ENGINE FLYWHEEL price €2.300 (includes VAT). They tell me that the smell persists (I understand that they can cause it) and that in 'their tests in the workshop' they have noticed some slack in changing a gear. The manager tells me that I should assume it was an accident, but I can't believe the extreme care I've had with the vehicle and I don't know what to do.
I am perplexed by: (1) that I should do this repair (yes or yes) due to the unique and isolated situation that I have described (being the 4th car that I have, nothing like this has ever happened to me). (2) The EXORBITATE PRICE of the repair.
At the moment they have ordered the pieces, but the body asks me to find some way to corroborate:
a-) that the clutch and 'flywheel' must be changed (they tell me that the flywheel is worth €800) and
b-) that the price is not a real nonsense (meaning that it is more than 30% higher than equivalent offers)
In any case, I want original parts and be able to keep the official Opel maintenance (I don't want any trouble)
Anyway I only explain it to vent, and in case there is any timely comment about it that can guide me.
Thanks in advance to anyone who has bothered to read me and/or answer me.
Oriol
Good night:
Look from what I understand in your comment, you only caused the clutch to suffer excessive overheating since when you were playing with it, you caused the clutch disc pads to heat up and the smell would burn.
the disc is the part that transmits the power of the engine to the transmission. the pastes or as they can also be called bearings, were previously made of asbestos as a primary component but as a rule, because it is a polluting product, other products are now used, such as graphite from organic materials or fiberglass, which is widely used by the luk brand around here, fiberglass tends to generate more heat and not absorb it, damaging the mooring tracks more, damaging the clutches sooner, which is the safest thing that was your case.
look at that brand of cars they are not marketed in mexico I don't know if they are a dual mass flywheel but due to the overheating suffered by the flywheel the track must be distorted, if it is a dual mass flywheel you cannot rectify the same piece but if it is a single mass flywheel send the steering wheel to rectify it for the track this even if the steering wheel is a box it is when it has 2 tracks one is where the screws that hold the press go and the other where the disc works, they must take the depth measurement if it is they don't have it for when they rectify it, they give it the same again and when you replace the clutch it has a normal life, and you continue to keep it original.
Since the manufacturers make the most commercial pieces, I understand that the costs are high and those wheels are poorly designed, their purpose is very good, but the design is bad, instead of 2 springs there should be at least 4 so that the torque is better and its useful life is greater, well, but it has left me good dividends since I modify the design of the steering wheel, I make them the same original steering wheel from dual mass to single mass, I am from Mexico
Very good. I only had a noise when turning to the right in curves and only when I was accelerating. After the noise was more but always right side of the steering wheel. If he turned left there was no noise. A month and a half passed with the noise and I took it to the workshop. They told me that it is the dual mass and that with the kit the clutch had to be changed. €950. it is a passat variant 1.9 bluemotion from 2008. Now the noise is completely gone. It never makes noise anymore. I only hear a clack clack when I accelerate or decelerate sharply. I took it to the workshop and they told me that the noise would come back...or else, I don't know that it had returned to its place and that's why there was no noise. I don't know if I have to take it to another workshop... or what to do. What happens is that now by not making noise I don't see the point either. If you can help me I would appreciate it.
Well, I can only tell you that a short time ago I delivered a 2.0 petrol Ford Focus. With 380.000 km and with the original clutch... it never made a noise or any problem.
I have the dual-mass steering wheel somewhat touched, from time to time it makes that famous rattling noise when it is idling and in neutral, but for now it does not produce any annoying vibration or anything, the car runs perfectly except for that noise that does it sometimes, does something happen to continue extending the life of the bimass? Can it cause more damage to the other components of the vehicle? Thank you
As you have seen, the flywheel is the piece that is screwed to the crankshaft, which is the important part of the engine. If the flywheel is unbalanced because it has already lost its center and is off center, it will be causing damage to the engine mount.
I have an Audi a5 2.0 tfsi, for some time now it vibrates at idle and neutral, and the engine does not sound good, like something loose, but when I start it works perfectly, I have looked at spark plugs, pipes, injection, software, etc. could it be dual mass?
Thank you
Hello, I have a 2007 hyunday santa fe with 300000 km, with 3 years and 103000 I had to change the dual-mass clutch, now it has broken again, I hardly drive in the city, it is normal that it has 2 dual-mass at this time and with the km that I have ?Thank you very much in advance
Unfortunately, it is possible to break two dual masses in 300.000 km.
Buenas tardes!!! This morning I took my car (Opel corsa CDTI) to the workshop because it makes a very strange noise when it is in neutral that disappears when I step on the clutch, it is a noise like metal vibration, coffee maker…. I do not know how to explain it.
In short, I have been told that it is the dual-mass clutch and that the parts alone cost €879 + 7 hours of labour, that is, a total of around €1200-1300.
The truth is that I don't know what to do because my car is 11 years old and has 156.000 km.
I have been reading that if dual-mass flywheel plus dual-mass clutch…. I don't understand much about this, is it supposed that if I have a dual-mass clutch I also have a dual-mass flywheel? If I have to change it, do I have to change everything? or just the clutch? Is it possible to change the entire clutch for a cheaper system that is not dual-mass? The truth is that the mechanic and I are not very close friends…. If anyone could advise me I would appreciate it!
Thank you all very much 🙂
Hello, the clutch is the same whether it is a dual-mass or single-mass flywheel, since they are different pieces. There is the possibility of changing to a monomass system, although you run the risk that it will not go well and you will have to remove it, as people have been commenting on the thread. In principle I do not recommend it, you are not going to save much and the previous one has lasted 11 years...
Any element can be changed separately, since the clutch kit, thrust bearing and flywheel are sold separately. The "good" thing is that by changing it all together you only pay the labor once, which is quite a lot of money, since it's all together. It is advisable to change the bearing and the clutch kit at the same time, since one piece can "corrupt" the other when working together.
In your case, since it is probably the dual mass that is faulty, and since it is the most expensive part, I would also change the clutch kit in your place and thus ensure a lasting repair.
Regarding the price, I suppose you are considering changing your car. That is already a personal decision, but think that you are not going to find a second-hand car for €1.200 that is exempt from giving you breakdowns.
Thank you very much Louis! I have been informing myself and I think that what is broken is the thrust bearing, since it only makes noise when the car is in neutral and it disappears when the clutch is pressed…. It is also true that if I step on the clutch halfway, that is, not fully, it also makes noise!
I've been told that if it's the bearing I can be calm and go like this... It's just the noise but the car won't let me down, what do you think? It is that if the only thing is the noise…. I think I will continue with my coffee car, hahahaha
Thanks again
Hola!
I have an MB Class B and it turns out that I feel like a vibration at idle, but not when I'm running, maybe because of all the movement I don't perceive it. Also when I'm decelerating it also happens as a kind of engine brake (I don't know if it's exactly that) and I really don't feel anything strange, I've been using it for more than a year and I don't feel anything, maybe I'm used to it or it always did and I don't I noticed it or I did not perceive it as a problem.
The truth is that sometimes when I go out in first gear I feel something that later seems to disappear, like a vibration, but it's not annoying. For me it is because of the high power of the engine, that is, 134 hp, or perhaps that has nothing to do with it.
I have a VW Suran and I do not perceive that vibration. I know it has two different clutch systems, but there's something weird about it.
I once felt an aroma like asbestos, that is, a strange aroma from outside that I always attributed to the environment, but faint, although I don't feel that the car runs out of power when I accelerate or I have to make a sorpasso, that is, a overtaking with adjusted distances.
A little while ago, maybe 4000 or 5000 km. the clutch was changed, according to the official agency, but not anything else.
Greetings.
I bought an a3 sedan selection plus two weeks ago and I would like some mechanic to listen to this. In the dealership they say that it is normal in the 1.6. The car has dual mass confirmed.
This is when you step on and release the clutch.
https://youtu.be/zZVfJ6rLOWY
This from inside the vehicle
https://youtu.be/ZiZYjoyxW_U
And this when stopping the engine
https://youtu.be/F8EhCBUb574
Judge for yourself, bought in Seville with 24000 km.
Hello! I have an A3 from 2004 with 235.000 km, and apart from losing speed uphill to the point of having to put it in second gear, when I stop the car at a traffic light, for example, I notice that the car has been pulling for a while. They said that it could be the flywheel and a short time later due to a crankshaft failure »» they told me that I had to change the gearbox which included the flywheel after doing that and telling me the joke about €1600 my car is still pulling I don't know if I'm explaining myself with that expression, it's as if I were pulling forward without doing it and when it's time to engage the clutch at a midpoint it stops pulling… What could it be?
Good! I have a 4 A2010 with 330.000 km and I had to change the clutch, it is dual mass. The issue is the clutch, they have left it fine for me, but the ESP and ABS lights come on on the car screen, they tell me in the workshop that they cannot calibrate the direction because the airbag ring is broken. My question is if to change the clutch they may have touched the steering wheel or direction and the airbag ring has broken? Well, they tell me that it has broken only because it was already their turn, and the truth is that I have no idea of mechanics.
Thank you
To change the clutch, in principle, you don't have to touch anything related to the steering, much less with the airbag ring. I understand that the car entered without any light on and came out with that problem?
Right, he came in with nothing on! They told me that the address hindered them to work with the clutch! Thanks for the reply
It may be that it interferes with the steering rack or the rod for the clutch change, and it has to be disassembled. But even so I do not see how the airbag ring could have broken, unless they have turned the steering wheel "crazy" without being linked to the steering itself.
What have they told you?
Hello, good, I have a Leon 1.9 tdi 130 hp, the clutch makes a strange noise like a ratchet when I step on it, but the strange thing is that the first and reverse gears get stuck many times being unable to put neutral. Could someone tell me what it could be? Thanks.
Surely with the change of the clutch + dual mass kit everything will be solved. Have you consulted any workshop?
Inform me please! I have a Ford focus 1.6 115 from 2012 with only 25800km. And I'm out of clutch. I have not noticed a burning smell or noise, the pedal responds perfectly but the gears do not enter. My previous car in 20 years never gave me this problem. What I can do? I refuse to even think that they want to convince me that it is due to misuse because my routes are the most basic, neither costs nor anything at all. Do you know if it could be a vehicle defect? Thank you
carmen i want to think that when you say that it doesn't go, it's that the gears don't come in when you're in neutral and parked there are several tests you can do carefully since precaution is required 1 with the car off put any gear put the handbrake well pressed step on the brake press the clutch and give the key to start with this action we are going to see if the clutch press is doing its function of neutralizing if your car tends to want to move it is because the press is damaged the safest thing is that the diaphragm is broken this is something common since it is a spring that with temperature changes can break even when they are not used, it can also be the hydraulic system pumps that are damaged and do not do the necessary price to push the press if you see that the car moves don't try to start it
If your car starts without problems, you are going to put it in neutral with the car running calmly, you are going to try to put any other gear in it since the transmission is neutralized and all its gears should not be in movement if when trying to take out the gear it gets stuck or battles may be due to the fact that the transmission is not completely neutralized, it is most likely that the hydraulic system is already on its last legs these are some of the basic tests to check and as your comment the irons do not have word of honor we cannot guarantee how long they will last as all factors contribute to their performance
I am frankly absorbed with the mechanical ignorance of the author of the article on mechanics, to the point that it is scary... I do not understand how it can be said that a starter motor does not influence the operation of the dual mass. Or how a running vibration bluntly asserts dual mass and doesn't mention anything about the fuel system, timing chain... I'm not just engrossed, I'm scared. Thank you
Hello Zarandajas, for me you are totally wrong, the article is very clear, for me the explanation in the article is perfect and very carefully gives answers to possible noises that occur in the car, nowhere does it say that it is the only possibility to the noises or that it cannot be another source. Another thing is the readers and participants who, without even seeing the car or hearing it, want an answer as to what is wrong with their car, as if Mr. Luis were a generous fortune teller.
Not everyone knows everything, a noise can come from many places, in my case a professional Citroen "mechanic" in a Citroen car, did not know how to recognize this noise, which sometimes appears and disappears and after changing the kit Complete clutch, gearbox oil change with a special additive, then it went through a gearbox gear and some bushing, it ended up being just the biomass flywheel. MR. Luis Gaton thank you very much. All the best.
Hello, good afternoon, I have a jaguar X type and for some time now it has been making noise when I lift my foot off the clutch to start the march, if I accelerate a little it seems that it is less noticeable, I have gone to the workshop and they say that it may be the bearing of the clutch and that the clutch kit and the dual-mass flywheel need to be changed, I need your opinion, greetings and thanks
Good afternoon, I would like you to tell me what could happen to the car, it is a PT CRUISER CRD2.2 I bought it 2 months ago with 70000 km and yesterday after 15 days without moving it at the time of starting when I step on the clutch, it was loose and since in this car you have to engage the clutch to start, I couldn't. Today I have taken it to the workshop and they tell me that it will probably be the clutch and it will have to be changed around 600 euros and if when it is disassembled it may also be necessary to change the cylinder 300 euros and then they will look and also the dual-mass flywheel 1300 euros. My question is I have not noticed anything in the clutch until yesterday, it does not make any noise, only the clutch sinks and I have never noticed anything, could it be such a big fault?
hello I have a vw golf 1.6 year 2009 (it has the same engine as the voyage) a week ago one of the two bolts that hold the engine leg on the side of the timing belt fell off, there the vibration of the steering wheel started and stopped gear, the mechanic replaced all the legs of the motor (three in total) they are hydraulic legs and the vibration of the floor and seat steering wheel continues but only when it is stopped even stopped if you accelerate it without gear the vibration disappears what could it be, the clutch I don't think That is because all the gears enter well and it does not make any noise when pressed
Hello... I'll tell you that I have a 2002 CRD 2.5 jeep liberty with a rectified engine x sorbreheating 50 thousand km ago currently with 275 thousand km. I changed complete clutch kit sets 20 thousand km ago since I had to change each crankshaft rear seal. In that change we do not find anything strange in the steering wheel. Now it comes back with an oil leak due to the same seal, without knowing the cause, we decided to lower the gearbox again and change the seal and base plate rust. Subtle radial fissure of the steering wheel is detected. I don't feel any noise or anything like that. Should I change the bi-mass so as not to break something else? If one x the old model is not available on the market, can you adapt a similar one? From what vehicle? Will it have been the cause of damaging the main seal and already on 3 occasions there was an oil leak and what did you need to change the seal? I'm worried. Atte. MARCELUS
My name is Pedro:
I have a renault laguna 2nd generation 2003. Some time ago, when I start in neutral, the car vibrates until it warms up more or less. I took it to Ranault and they told me it was the engine mounts after six days of diagnosis and no car. Total €435. After three days the vibrations again, I take it again and they tell me that it is the double clutch flywheel. Total labour, parts, removing and inserting the motor, €1700 (it must be said that if I accept a quote, they deduct the €435 that they charged me for the supports). It seems incredible to me that in six days of diagnosis they did not find the fault and now in a minute they tell me about the clutch. I don't know whether to accept the budget or put up with the vibrations (only at idle and at first until it warms up) and I ask if I may have a serious problem (dangerous) if I don't fix it or except for the annoying vibration, I can pull.
Anyway, let's see if you can advise me, because it's a paste and when it's not the lights, it's the card holder or the shock absorbers or the turn signals. a bottomless pit.
Thank you
hello I bought a few days ago an Opel vectra 1.9cdti 150cv the car runs very well it doesn't vibrate at all and the car doesn't jerk what I have noticed is that the clutch pedal if you put your foot on it if you press it vibrates a little and when I stop it, it sounds like a strange noise. It could be the biomass. Thanks, greetings.
I have a 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe. There is a small sound in neutral, especially when I take my foot off the clutch with force and it happens when I step on it again, it also loses the sound when I take my foot off the clutch pedal delicately. The other problem is that the changes at first sometimes get difficult and sometimes they are good I would appreciate your answer
Hello, I have a 2014 Santa Fe. There is a strange sound when I take my foot out of the clutch abruptly and it happens when I step on the clutch, and if I take my foot out of the clutch gently, it loses that sound. force but sometimes they also enter normal I WOULD APPRECIATE AN ANSWER
Good morning, I have a c max from 2007 and 92000 km in the workshop they told me that it is the dual mass, my question, is it convenient to change the entire clutch or just the dual mass, I don't know if it is the right place but the car also fails me the handbrake brakes one side more than the other, what can it be, thanks in advance
Hello Luis. Very interesting article. I have a 2.0 Ford Focus 2014 that at 15.000 km the clutch pedal began to make noise, both in neutral, and while passing the gears. Every time I press it it makes a “tick tick”. They told me that it needed to be lubricated, later I changed the clutch pedal and now with 30.000 km it continues with the sound (softer than before, since I changed the pedal). I'm going to find out from the Ford workshop if it can be biomass. Thank you!
hello in consultation mode I have a kia optima 2015 manual petrol with 60000 km and the dual-mass flywheel failed, what is the duration of this piece? because if it lasts 60 thousand, it is clear that I will have to sell the car since the value of the dual-mass flywheel is 1300 dollars. I await your response, thank you very much
Hi, my problem is the following:
For a few months my peugeot 407hdi 136cv has been giving me a problem when starting cold, it is difficult and not always, but there are times that when it starts, a red letter P lights up on the LED screen on the panel accompanied by a beep. I decided to change the battery (Since I was 7 years old) I saw that the problem was not from there, I decided to change the heaters and it did not solve anything either. The most likely thing is that it is the starter motor and that the dual mass is also affected because it nods when it starts, the car when it starts does not have any vibration, no jerk or anything strange. Thank you very much in advance
Hi, I just got an alfa romeo 166, 2.4 jtd engine ar34202, I bought it cheaper because of the clutch, the symptoms are problems when entering reverse gear, it almost always scratches, the pedal is pressed all the way to change gears, fluid in the tank in level, when starting the car vibrates in the front axle then the change stabilizes, my first appreciation was either a disc or a hydraulic pusher, taken to a mechanic, he says!!! fixed clutch, bowler in doubt, dual-mass disc, you don't know if it doesn't open, the car has 230 thousand km, but there is no history of clutch changes, we go blind, none of those you comment on in your article is heard luis, what is your opinion? ahh and thanks for this clear and concise article!! you're a crack kid!!!
Hello Luis, Thanks in advance for the attention you can give me, I have a Touran TDI DSG 140 CV. from April 2004 with 160.000 km, well cared for and, until now, without problems, a few weeks ago I sporadically noticed a wobble from side to side, of the vehicle when accelerating from 50 to 80 km/h, it didn't always do it, but it did from time to time from time to time, I think more often when exiting roundabouts or the like.
Since I had changed some of the transmission lubrication tires on those previous dates, I went to the workshop where I had done it and we took a walk without being able to see anything, telling me that they didn't think it was anything dangerous.
This past week I have made a family trip throughout Cantabria, Bilbao and Asturias, (I am from Valencia) and at first the car behaved very well, in slow city roundabouts and when accelerating, sometimes it did, but when passing from 80 km/h or so that movement disappeared, in my excursions I have maintained a legal speed of 120 (real), with the whole family and suitcases, with already more than half of the trip done (which have been 2.700 km in total...), I began to notice that if I wanted to maintain that pace on climbs I noticed a vibration similar to the pavement being slightly scratched, in fact at first that was what I thought, until the fault crossed my mind and if I loosened the pedal the vibration disappeared. vibration. but the issue did not go beyond that.
Back home, shortly after starting the trip (100 km more or less...), that feeling of scratched surface became more frequent, to the point of starting to get overwhelmed and believe that I was left lying, since in a At any given moment it didn't have to be uphill; I also did it on the flat and at much lower speeds (95/100 km/h). Suddenly, I switched to manual, reduced two gears, accelerated, and put the sixth again and it disappeared, so I continued my trip without stopping with the car in perfect condition. We only made one stop to eat something 170 km from the destination.
Shortly after resuming the march, the sensation progressively increased, to the point of doubting again whether he would reach Valencia,
I arrived without problems and after leaving the car stopped for a few hours I picked it up again while wandering around without noticing anything, this morning I took it to the mechanic, it worked like clockwork, he tested it and he just called me to pick it up, without may have experienced the fault,
Ah! With the vibration (which did not reach noise) I did tests to see if it was accentuated in 4th, 5th or 6th gear and it was not, the vibration depended on the speed of the vehicle and not on that of the engine.
It is clear that the car has something, but he tells me the most likely solution is to replace the gearbox (DSG).
I break out in sweat just thinking about it! Also, without noise, only from time to time, and without the gear I'm in affecting the problem, it seems illogical to me that it comes from there. If you or someone on the forum could shed light on where the problem is, I would be eternally grateful.
Thanked beforehand.
Hyacinth
Hello good day dear LUIS; I'm telling you... your server has a 120 standard 2008-speed BMW 6i. Suddenly I got a warning light on the ENGINE dashboard. I took it to a friend and he told me it was a clucth fault... anyway! They repaired it…and my surprise was that the CLUTCH, now it failed! which was NOT wrong! 2 days after using the car again, the ENGINE code appeared with the code P073 (which is a power failure, perhaps from the VALVETRONIC or it is more associated when you DO NOT put CASTROL EDGE SYNTHETIC oil, it seems unbelievable... but the VALVETRONIC by not detecting the exact viscosity of this oil...it fails by thousandths at startup and that causes a startup code and later, the car loses power, etc etc etc to conclude, these cars have to be changed oil Original CASTROL every 6 to 8 months and you won't have any faults, in short! Later my problem began that every time I start and put first gear...and I leave slowly, the car has a very ugly game...in the clutch...like it has something loose , at first they told me it was the pasta (which had to be worn little by little in order to adjust) but it took a few months and nothing... in fact when I'm in a HIGH, it has a slight rattle sound and when, I enter the clucth of it stops ringing and is super quiet (as it was before) it is worth mentioning that the speeds fit perfectly and the car takes off super well! the speeds without any problem... it's just these uncomfortable details...
I asked some people and they indicated that it would be the VOALNTE or CLUCTH ZIPPER….and that I could only find it at the agency, (obviously the price at the agency is $735 dollars or $13,750 Mexican pesos) The truth is I have a feeling that the clutch did they go wrong or did something wrong, how do you see? Could it really be that the FLYWHEEL of the clutch is damaged?
(It sounds and feels like, if there was something loose when you start slowly and go, taking out the clutch little by little…and when you walk and from there you go up to 6th gear, without problem, without any noise…until you come to a stop and it sounds… you put the clutch back in and the noise stops… what's more, I think it does it when the car is very cold… only and sometimes it doesn't always do it… maybe 10 times it does it about 6 times.
How do you see?
Greetings and thank you very much for your time…
Armando
Hello. I put this letter sent to Audi Spain, who have not paid me any attention.
Subject: Audi Q5 breakdown after leaving the workshop.
About a year ago I took it to the workshop because sometimes the gears jump, especially in low gears. After looking at it they told me that the car had nothing. Up to here, good.
Last July 13, I did the review before going on vacation at Warna Vagen Passeig de la Vall d'Hebron, 101, 08035 Barcelona as usual. The car has only been touched by Audi mechanics and it only travels short distances except in summer… I went to Andalusia in mid-August like every year. Before the trip and after taking the car out of the workshop I noticed something strange in the car, it seemed that it was slipping a little, but I didn't give it any importance because it was something very, very slight. Back in Barcelona I noticed the error more. I came back without overtaking and driving carefully. It was a Friday afternoon, and the Audi workshops were closed.
In the end the car left me lying. I could no longer take it to the workshop and had to call a tow truck.
My complaint is the following. Is this fault going to have something to do with the fact that the gears jump as I told the mechanic in a revision last year? Is it normal for an Audi to leave you lying a few days after leaving the workshop and pay 650 euros to check it? Could it be due to bleeding the clutch incorrectly, which was done in the last revision?
Gentlemen of Audi, I do not pay that amount to replenish fluids and change filters, I can do that myself. I pay because I trust the brand and thinking that the car will leave the workshop in perfect condition to be able to make a little trip having been checked by Audi professionals.
I do not believe in coincidences. The car entered the workshop well and went wrong. And that is a fact. I suspect that someone did not do their job well in July when they have more workload. My complaint goes further. The mechanic who attended me gave me to understand that the revision carried out that cost 650 euros does not offer me any guarantee, which is embarrassing coming from Audi.
As a customer, no one explained to me that if one day I needed to have the car towed to the workshop, I could use the Audi Class service, which seems to be included because the car has passed all the revisions in the Audi workshop. This has delayed the arrival of the car in the workshop for a day. I have not been offered a replacement car either.
A well cared for car, with few kilometers, and using it 11 months a year only on weekends and going to Andalusia in summer, this happens to him. It is not normal.
I have filed a complaint with OMIC.
Hi, I have an Alfa Romeo 156 1.9Jtd multijet 140cv 16v from 2004 with 211.000km. Right now I am waiting in an Aurgi for a balance to be done and the mechanic just scared me, due to a situation that I described to him and I will share it with you. My car runs fine, no jerks, no clutch failure, nothing, the only thing is that when I go from 80-90-100 km/h, the steering wheel starts to shake when accelerating, if I stop accelerating it hardly shakes anymore. The mechanic tells me that it may be the dual-mass flywheel and that it would cost about 1300 euros, so I almost fainted. I bought the car 3 weeks ago from a dealership for sale, with an invoice. According to my description, could you tell me if it is the dual mass or more likely due to a block in the engine or due to bothering of the wheels (parallel, balanced). Thanks in advance
Good morning, I have a Skoda Octavia 1.6 tdi with DSG transmission, a month ago they changed the mechatronics of the car since it skipped gears and went into neutral. When the car is delivered to me the next day I begin to hear a vibration noise from the central part below the engine, at first I have not moved the car much, rather little, the noise is heard mainly when I am stopped or almost stopped as a kind of TAC TAC TAC, as described in some comments, I did not take it at first because they told me in the workshop when they gave it to me due to the change in mechatronics to observe it and that it had to be adjusted and that if in a while He watched something take him back. But after a month in which I will have done about 200kms to the car, I already decide to take it to the workshop and they tell me that the noise comes from the head that the 2-mass flywheel and the needle roller have to be changed, total budget 920,16 €.XNUMX. My question is that before taking the car because of the mechatronics there was no such noise and this has come out as a result of the mechatronics change, could it be because something was touched during the repair so that the steering wheel was damaged? inertia?, since in the official skoda workshop (where they did the repair) they tell me no. and it surprises me that as soon as I take it out of the workshop due to a breakdown, the next day another one comes out. And I am waiting to confirm that they repair it or not.
Greetings and thanks in advance for your response
hello everyone. i have a volvo s40. They have just distributed it. After 60 km the car starts to shake, it has vibrations and when it starts it hits, also when it is stopped. The mechanic says that it is the dual mass. As an error code, it comes out c301. He does not know what it is. I have found out that this code corresponds to cylinder failure number one. Please, an opinion. The car went well until leaving the workshop. Thanks
Hello. I don't usually get my hands on any of the cars I've had and have, but the need (the few quarters), makes me look at prices, investigate, and find out –leñe–. My congratulations to the people who give this information to neophytes like me. Thank you! They are going to change the clutch kit in the trusted workshop. My car is a KIA Carnival with 14 years and 184.000 km. I have been told that it will be about 600 and picoeuros. I think it was a dual mass, when the car got hot that's when it skidded and couldn't accelerate. All the best.
Hello Luis, if you can give advice. Thank you. I am about to buy a ford Mondeo Familiar tddi 2000 115 hp, year 2001, almost inaudible the noise as you describe of dual mass failure, at idle, if a clack, like wood or plastic when shifting or reducing, I think even a small vibration at the wheel, the switch is perfect. It has 136.000 kts. After 30 kts. test almost disappeared clak sound. At Ford he tells me that this model does NOT have dual mass, but that with series of others that should not have either, they have found that it does. The owner's mechanic told him it was dual mass. What could this noise be? would you wait for it to be more obvious?
Thank you very much.-
Hello, I have an Audi A3 Sportback with 200.000 km that I think is starting to give me dual-mass problems. Strange noise at idle as if metal parts were touching and when I press the clutch it makes a "clack-clack-clack". It inflicts a little vibration on the car, but intermittently but when changing gears I have no problems. It has a dual mass flywheel and my mechanic tells me to change it to single mass. Is this a good idea? What is more advisable, mount dual-mass again or make a change to single-mass?
Thank you very much in advance and best regards
In a 2005 Leon, I had the dual-mass replaced and replaced with a single-mass kit with a classic clutch. They go more than 30 thousand km and we take a caravan on vacation and no problem
Hello Ruben; thanks for the reply. So, what they say about it being less smooth when changing gears, that it infers vibrations to the car, that it's noisier, etc etc, hasn't it happened in your case? Well, that's what has me the most stopped. I understand what I have read somewhere that all these mono-mass systems are created, tested in the laboratory and then on the track and that is why they go on sale as substitutes for dual-mass, but of course, there are so many different opinions, most of them do not they are direct experiences but someone who knows someone who has been told something..., which makes you doubt a lot when making the decision.
Anyone else with any personal experience on this?
Thank you and best regards
Let's see...dual mass is a relatively new invention. 10 years ago, hardly any car mounted a dual-mass flywheel but rather a single-mass flywheel with a classic clutch. None vibrations, identical touch and ditto softness.
The only difference is that in the dual-mass the damping springs go inside the flywheel (2, although long) and in a traditional clutch they go in the clutch disc (4, but shorter). The clutch disc of a dual-mass does NOT have springs, hence all the efforts are made by the flywheel (that's why they get so screwed up). The same gearboxes that go with dual mass today, 5 years ago or in other models of the same brand work with single mass perfectly and in an original way... so... no weird stories
Hi there. In my little knowledge of mechanics I deduce from what you say that in the case of changing from dual-mass to single-mass (whenever possible) you have to change everything including the flywheel and clutch kit and the clutch disc is supposed to have to be incorporated springs right?
On the other hand, taking advantage of what you understand, I want to present my problem to see if you or someone who understands so well can clear my doubts.
I have a Toyota rav4 diesel from 2007 with 160.000 km. The gear change from 1st to 2nd is very hard, sometimes scratching and if I press the clutch fully (and I mean fully touching the floor of the car) it improves substantially, is this synchronized gearbox or clutch? I must say that the car is perfect for me in everything else, neither vibrates nor noises nor anything.
If it is the clutch, is it convenient to change the dual-mass flywheel as well? taking into account that it does not show any symptoms of noise and vibrations as I have already said.
Sorry for going on so long.
Greetings and thank you.
You are absolutely right, they are some people who take money
Well yes, I had a 1999 Toyota avensis I bought 2nd hand, it still circulates in the hands of another with 330.000 km: No clutch. (and no other repair ever)
I bought a new Toyota Avensis III tb diesel in 2010, yes very smooth, but now with 6 years and 5 to hell with the dual-mass clutch: 150.000Eur with discounts.
I had never had to repair any clutch in any car….
You are all very confused...the clutch change is NOT a fault...it is one more wear part and as such, it has a maintenance that depends on many factors that influence its durability
I totally agree with you and the durability of mine is between 110.000 and 120.000 kilometers and I changed it once and I go for a second one, you are absolutely right
The truth is that I tried the repair with a workshop that claimed to be the best in Argentina: Rimoldi dual-mass clutches from Villa Maria Cordoba. It worked for 20 days, then it broke, he didn't give me an invoice, he didn't want to fulfill the guarantee and he ended up insulting me. Conclusion buy original and go a little jewel.
good
I just bought a 2009 altea xl and this morning when I start up I hear a tec tec on the side of the left front wheel, what could it be? also if you are seated you feel a very mild shake but the engine still sounds just as good. the car has 196000 km
Hi, my name is Jesus. I have an Audi A4 150 from 2014 with 5900 km. It is still under warranty. For some time now, when I go out in first gear with a hot car, it shakes and bounces from the engine. ballante and pedals, some mechanics have told me that it is the dual mass and at the dealership they say that it is an overheating of the clutch and does not cover the guarantee and if they disassemble and it is not what I say, I pay.
I know for a fact that the mechanics know this problem and even with less km, but the after-sales manager affirms that it is a misuse of the clutch that you have to be very careful, it seems that nobody knows how to drive, I emphasize that the mechanics know about that issue .
Could someone tell me what to say hello
Hello Jesus, I would advise you to check the dictionary apart from the forums.
I will tell you about a breakdown of an Audi that I had:
Turns out the heater bleeder tap located above the clutch housing broke and leaked onto the clutch causing it to rust and stop working properly. My fault? Perhaps if someone in Audi had not gone overboard with the antifreeze all this would not have happened, however do not be scared either, if you have capital for an Audi 2014 you have for the breakdown. Good luck and cheer up. What is just a clutch?
Well, I am going to change the clutch to a jetta mkv having 130 thousand km. Nothing else is going to cost me 15 thousand Mexican pesos, it's crazy!!!! He's super charismatic
Jesus, me with an audi q5 and 58000 kms, broken dual-mass flywheel, and the workshop plays crazy. Before this I took it in June for a review. And with everything and that it breaks. I told them that I did not agree with the situation, since they were asking me for 2700 euros. I asked them to give me the missing parts, especially the dual-mass flywheel... and in the end they threw it to the junkyard. A shame. That happened to me in Warnabagen in Barcelona, Spain. Of pity.
Hello Luís G. I have the vehicle seat leon fr 150cv gasoline without connection of cylinders with 9000km. I notice at low speed 3-5km/h or when doing parking maneuvers that when I press the clutch it sounds like a ratchet and when I lift my foot it disappears. For some time here there was a noise on the driver's side, now it can be heard on the steering wheel (sound of creaking, creaking, creaking), I don't know why it could be the dual mass?
I have a 2007 Opel Zafira with 240.000 kilometers and the clutch already sounds and they change it once at 110.000 kilometers. I would like to know if it is normal in these cars or if it has happened to someone else, the car is perfect. Thank you
Could someone help me and guide me? I turn the steering wheel and there is a noise like a wire every time I complete a turn.
hello, I would like you to tell me about a problem that I have, they changed the dual-mass clutch kit of a ford transit double cabin and box, when they gave it to me, the clutch pedal vibrated, I told him and he told me that it was a problem with the crankshaft. The vehicle entered without vibrating at all and the gears entered badly.
I ask when changing the clutch, could I have made a mistake of bad placement to destroy the engine since the crankshaft has taken a 3mm oscillation game and I have to put a new engine, thanks if you answer me
My second bimas clutch, in a VOLVO S40, the first at 109.000 km and the second less than 60.000 km, but for more than 30.000 km, they already told me I had problems. It is possible that I am a man driving, but it is clear that either the mounted dual masses had problems or their installation was not correct. I forgot, when I took the vehicle out of the workshop the first time, at 600 kms, I went on a trip and went back into the workshop, and VOLVO paid me for the breakdown. Now I even think they didn't change my clutch the first time
Hello. I ask, in addition to the noise and the shaking does it bring any other problem? That is, if I decide to put up with these annoyances for a while, does something happen? Thank you
Good morning, I took my car to the workshop yesterday with a great noise, apparently it is the clutch…. I wanted advice the fault is the clutch price around 1400 euros and labor around 300, the car is a 4 a2009 with 260.000km and is a 2.0tdi 140cc thanks.
With that budget, I imagine that they will also change the dual-mass flywheel.
good morning, I would like someone to clarify my doubt as to whether I can change the dual-mass flywheel to single-mass in a golf IV TDI 130 hp 6v from 2001 265.000 kms, since I read in forums that for engines of 110 hp and below it is recommended but up there no. I have also read that the valeo monomass is suitable for golf plus, V, etc. but not for IV. What brands do you recommend and if there is one for my model? Is there a mechanic or someone who has the same model and has put it in, if they recommend it to me or not? I'm taking the opportunity to change the clutch kit, etc. of course.
Thanks in advance.
Good morning, I have a golf 4 TDI 130 CV 6v 265000 kms, the car vibrates a lot when idling cold and hot and when I turn it off the clak clak clak sounds as you indicate, so the biomass steering wheel is touched, I have been looking at forums, The first thing is that I am going to change the clutch and flywheel kit as is logical, my question is, for this car with this 130 hp engine, a single-mass flywheel is good and why, because the one it comes with is dual-mass and has lasted 16 years and 265000 km that seen in the forums are enough, another question would be which brands are the most reliable to buy, thanks in advance
I have Audi at 4 b8. 2.0 136hp
In first class when leaving I noticed a small vibration, everyone told me that it was normal. With 136 thousand km the clutch has literally burned out. It left me lying and super burned. They only changed the clutch and thrust bearing. given and the vibration has made me a couple of times when leaving in first gear. the dual mass was fine and they didn't change it. I don't know what to think.
I have a Nissan – Pathfinder 2.5 with 174 hp. R-51 of 2007 and I have been starting to feel a sharp friction for five days, when I start to move, and when I step on the clutch or put it at idle, the noise stops, completely, I have a monomass, well, the one that sold put it on a year ago. Well, according to him, it makes a little more noise when the car idles, but they last twice as long as the dual-mass, according to him. Tell me please, what could that noise be, that has me so restless and nervous. Thanks.
finally you can get the dual mass flywheel I am from Ecuador I have a 2007 hyunday santa fe with a v6 gasoline engine and I can't find that sold flywheel anywhere
The first time I see a dual-mass flywheel, the invention of Vasco from BH who did not patent it and everyone has taken advantage of it, the starter motors have it.
The problem I have is that the starter motor has a hard time turning, with a key turning the engine was impossible, I took out the crankcase and everything was normal, there were no particles in it, I tried turning the engine with a key and At the end of the lap I heard a clack, I thought it was from the timing chain but seeing this post almost clears my doubts, because in diesel, I have even found that a flywheel can mount a drive pinion with one more tooth or less, well the car in question is an Opel Zafira model A diesel 2000cc
Just congratulate Diego López for the magnificent article. Clear informative and very well structured. very good. just what happens to my focus that I have understood perfectly. You'll have to save to change it. I love my focus! Cheers
Very good: I don't know if anyone can lend me a hand, they changed the clutch of my ford s max with 280000 km due to a noise when stepping on the clutch, they put a new one at a cost of 1000e, at 2000km another happened again Once the noise was caused, they put a new one due to a possible failure and after 500km it happened again, I wonder if someone could explain to me why that happens because the mechanic tells me it's incredible that it happens again...
Hello everyone, I have a problem with the car, I don't know what. It is the fault. When the engine is turned on, it vibrates a lot, I don't know what it is, it may be from the shipment. By. K I'm seeing a lot of comments and I'm going crazy. When I step on the clutch as if it were accelerating before, it didn't work like that
I thought I didn't notice either. Try another car. When I step on the clutch it doesn't grab anything. Mine if I'm new to it and I don't know anything.
The mechanics want to fuck me for k. Supposedly he doesn't know what it is. That. If I leave it and they charge me per hour until I find the fault. Emos involved. In obs vag unknown errors appear. If one of injectors another of egr and more than that I can't find them and I don't know whose they are. Can someone help me with advice or something?
Please
Good morning, very good article, I've learned a lot, because I got this problem, and the mechanic tells me, that it's an injector and I don't believe it, I think he's lying to me, they say they changed my dual mass and I think it's a lie, thank you very much for the article is exceptional
Excellent article.